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Hot Ignition switch

Old Jul 17, 2012 | 01:32 PM
  #31  
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You will find that the wires are "stuck" in the multy plug. They have a little spring loaded "catch" that holds them in the plug. It's on the flat side, and it's a hassle, but not imposable to slip something in there to hold it in flat so the female blade connector can be removed from the plug.

This one doesn't have that catch, but maybe the photo will help.
Attached Thumbnails Hot Ignition switch-101_0324.jpg  
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 05:53 AM
  #32  
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OK big update sorta. replaced the this

Hot Ignition switch-speed-control-switch.jpg

with

Hot Ignition switch-new-speed-swithc.jpg

replaced the melted connector with individual spade connectors that fit very snug on the blades and hooked up correctly and crimped and all that fun junk

then we inspected this:

Hot Ignition switch-ign-swithc.jpg

Hot Ignition switch-hot.jpg
got hot enough to make the red insert black.

we found that the red and purple ones that look burned actually got hot enough that i guess they melted the litttle nub that clips down and holds the connector in there so when it was pushed on they would slide out and not actually slide on the connector. so to test it we pushed them on by hand. thinking we solved the problem we started her up and ran the a/c....sadly still getting HOT . so our next step is to check/replace the two wires that are probably damaged. but if thats not it what else could it be?? i just thought what if the two are switched? would that cause problems? if not whats next?
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 06:07 AM
  #33  
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over-charging?
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Bbasso
over-charging?

ill have to check. but how would would it happen? what changed? its all factory
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 07:01 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Mendax13
ill have to check. but how would would it happen? what changed? its all factory
The original cause is usually too much resistance in the ignition switch or that the spade connectors were never real tight.

Excellent job of fixing it. You do know they make insulated female spades, right?
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
The original cause is usually too much resistance in the ignition switch or that the spade connectors were never real tight.

Excellent job of fixing it. You do know they make insulated female spades, right?

i am aware they make insulated spade connectors we just went with what we had. whats the best way to test this over charging theory? and how to fix if it is?
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 07:31 AM
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so this is the area thats getting hot...

Name:  switch hpt area.jpg
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maybe its a bad part?
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 05:13 PM
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Krimenney what fun! Over charging might be voltage above 14.8, (in my opinion). 14-1/4 is what i see on mine.

Besides a bad connection, too much current (for whatever size wire), will make heat. Does it only get hot with the AC on? If so I believe the wire to the AC clutch has an connector there somewhere. I might measure the amperage going through there, or just see if the business still gets hot with that un-plugged. Just a thought.

Just a bad switch? (over current might make the whole wire hot, where as contacts in the switch, or connections will be more local.) Maybe later I'll look for a diagram for your 96, and/or look at the one for my 90.
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Old Jul 27, 2012 | 08:16 PM
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Hot burn your fingers or warm?
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Krimenney what fun! Over charging might be voltage above 14.8, (in my opinion). 14-1/4 is what i see on mine.

Besides a bad connection, too much current (for whatever size wire), will make heat. Does it only get hot with the AC on? If so I believe the wire to the AC clutch has an connector there somewhere. I might measure the amperage going through there, or just see if the business still gets hot with that un-plugged. Just a thought.

Just a bad switch? (over current might make the whole wire hot, where as contacts in the switch, or connections will be more local.) Maybe later I'll look for a diagram for your 96, and/or look at the one for my 90.
the only reason i dont think its the a/c clutch is because it happens even with the heat on just as long as the fan is on it will get hot.

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Hot burn your fingers or warm?
it can get to the point where it would burn your fingers. depends how long i run the fan.



side note. the back-light fuse is supposed to be a 5 amp fuse. and it had 7.5 so i replaced it with a 5 and just last night it blew put the 7.5 back in. don't know if this has anything to do with the hot switch. just putting up all variables and such.
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 06:26 AM
  #41  
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why not get another switch that picture you posted switch looks pretty nasty could bexsame inside around contacts which will cause warmth
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Old Jul 28, 2012 | 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
why not get another switch that picture you posted switch looks pretty nasty could bexsame inside around contacts which will cause warmth
Good idea to replace the switch. freegdr, what's a "bexsame"?
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by freegdr
why not get another switch that picture you posted switch looks pretty nasty could bexsame inside around contacts which will cause warmth
which switch you talking bout ignition or fan speed control? i replaced the fan speed control switch. im considering a new ignition switch if it is likely the problem.


in continuation of the blown 5 amp fuse. the 7.5 amp blew tonight. its been replaced with a new one. hopefully this isn't an omen of complete electrical failure. lol still not sure if theyre connected at all.
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 06:55 AM
  #44  
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Let's back up here. Which switch is hot?
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Old Jul 29, 2012 | 10:43 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Let's back up here. Which switch is hot?
the ignition switch. now if i replace this whats the best part to use, reason i ask is it was replaced before and there were all kinds of problems. for example if you turned on the wipers the radio would come on instead. is there any brand or should i get one from the dealer.
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