Hot Ignition switch
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Does the fan power go through the switch, or a relay? I see in post #1, the switch gets hot with the fan on....is it "hot wired?"
Here, with a bit of hassle is a diagram for 93....(u gotte go IN there)..http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
Here, with a bit of hassle is a diagram for 93....(u gotte go IN there)..http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
Last edited by DFlintstone; Jul 14, 2012 at 09:16 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
12-2 is solid core copper for homes. Because flexing can easily brake solid copper that is bent allot, stranded copper is used in autos. 4 gauge would work, but IS also OK for a 6 volt starter. Just for now, run whatever you can find from a good body ground to a solid place on the engine. 6 gauge should handle anything but the starter. (and it will actually handle that). But whatever you have, the romex, a cord from somewhere....
Sheez! Sorry that just broke out! You gotta ground the engine to the uni-body!
Sheez! Sorry that just broke out! You gotta ground the engine to the uni-body!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 516
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Does the fan power go through the switch, or a relay? I see in post #1, the switch gets hot with the fan on....is it "hot wired?"
Here, with a bit of hassle is a diagram for 93....(u gotte go IN there)..http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
Here, with a bit of hassle is a diagram for 93....(u gotte go IN there)..http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
12-2 is solid core copper for homes. Because flexing can easily brake solid copper that is bent allot, stranded copper is used in autos. 4 gauge would work, but IS also OK for a 6 volt starter. Just for now, run whatever you can find from a good body ground to a solid place on the engine. 6 gauge should handle anything but the starter. (and it will actually handle that). But whatever you have, the romex, a cord from somewhere....
Sheez! Sorry that just broke out! You gotta ground the engine to the uni-body!
Sheez! Sorry that just broke out! You gotta ground the engine to the uni-body!
and i put the strap on the the original stud in the back and the other side on the stud to the right of my new finger decapitation hole.
one of the two in a vertical arrangement hope that works temporarily. is it an important ground? i see it called the radio noise suppression ground is that all it does?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
all grounds cleaned and added a 4 gauge ground from dipstick stud to 8mm stud in fender below the shock mount. ran it with a/c / fan still getting hot? 
whats the next step. oh and i got a picture of this

this is with the tilt all the way up and its another 1 or two positions down that i can get it plugged in the whole way. luckily I'm able to have it that way while driving.

whats the next step. oh and i got a picture of this 
this is with the tilt all the way up and its another 1 or two positions down that i can get it plugged in the whole way. luckily I'm able to have it that way while driving.
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'm concerned about that toasted looking wire in the photo. How well does it's female spade connector fit on the ignition switch? Did you clean the female spade? Take it out of the plastic connector and squeeze it so it fits tightly?
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hopefully somebody here has an answer. It's not imposable to use a tiny shim or dental tool to slip in from the front, flat side of the female connector and depress the little spring catch that keeps it plugged in to the connector.
With it out it could be wire brushed, inspected, tightened a bit with pliers...Idk! A bad connection surely will get hot if it needs to pass much current.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I'd wonder if the connections there are not still an issue. I don't know. The recipitacal deal that grabs...if it/they got really hot the metal might "loose temper". Get a little soft. Sucky when a bad connection makes it get hot which can make it connect worse.
Hopefully somebody here has an answer. It's not imposable to use a tiny shim or dental tool to slip in from the front, flat side of the female connector and depress the little spring catch that keeps it plugged in to the connector.
With it out it could be wire brushed, inspected, tightened a bit with pliers...Idk! A bad connection surely will get hot if it needs to pass much current.
Hopefully somebody here has an answer. It's not imposable to use a tiny shim or dental tool to slip in from the front, flat side of the female connector and depress the little spring catch that keeps it plugged in to the connector.
With it out it could be wire brushed, inspected, tightened a bit with pliers...Idk! A bad connection surely will get hot if it needs to pass much current.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 516
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I'd wonder if the connections there are not still an issue. I don't know. The recipitacal deal that grabs...if it/they got really hot the metal might "loose temper". Get a little soft. Sucky when a bad connection makes it get hot which can make it connect worse.
Hopefully somebody here has an answer. It's not imposable to use a tiny shim or dental tool to slip in from the front, flat side of the female connector and depress the little spring catch that keeps it plugged in to the connector.
With it out it could be wire brushed, inspected, tightened a bit with pliers...Idk! A bad connection surely will get hot if it needs to pass much current.
Hopefully somebody here has an answer. It's not imposable to use a tiny shim or dental tool to slip in from the front, flat side of the female connector and depress the little spring catch that keeps it plugged in to the connector.
With it out it could be wire brushed, inspected, tightened a bit with pliers...Idk! A bad connection surely will get hot if it needs to pass much current.
so definitely gotta hit that up.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Yea, with cruisers (2nd), and another look at your pic...I bet that's it. Besides the blade connector, it's crimp on that wire can be a suspect as well, especially now, since it's been baking hot.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Why, thank you Pete! The post took me long enough, even without giong into my word grosser for my (long), list of words that speel check can't even figure out! Ai ben getn betr tho.
Yea, with cruisers (2nd), and another look at your pic...I bet that's it. Besides the blade connector, it's crimp on that wire can be a suspect as well, especially now, since it's been baking hot.
Yea, with cruisers (2nd), and another look at your pic...I bet that's it. Besides the blade connector, it's crimp on that wire can be a suspect as well, especially now, since it's been baking hot.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: New Cumberland, PA
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
what should i be looking for just so i don't overlook something and such.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0


