I’m on the road currently, could get to it in a few weeks though. I’d have to buy materials but the cost is in the time it takes to make it. How’s $40 shipped, you paint it?

Cheers!

yeah... sounds good, you have a deal!!!

Hey @ElMartillo

Just wondering how this setup has held up so far. I've got a 1989 Cherokee with the closed cooling system that keeps losing coolant. I know the truck doesn't have a bad head gasket, and personally I think that the cap on the bottle is leaking allowing it to overflow. Either way I want to get rid of the whole thing and just go to an open system! Did you notice any operating temperature changes when you did the conversion?

Also along with Batman, if your still using this system I would like one of those baskets as well! $40 shipped sounds good to me.

Thanks!

I've done 3 of them. Runs like it should.

No problem, i know life gets in the way...

Trust me, i have been busy as well... barely worked on my jeep with a 2nd kid, new house, holidays, and trip to germany.... But i am glad i have not been forgotten.

NR 2802 radiator from Napa is about $120. If yours is old, start with that instead of the inline cap from Moroso.

I'm going to go with the NR 2802 radiator. Mine is original and I'm one of those guys that just likes to do it all while I can. I plan on doing the water pump, fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, radiator & heater hoses and then the closed to open conversion. I also plan to do away with the troublesome heater valve.

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up. Let me know whenever you get around to making some of them!

I converted my 89 many years ago. I used a CSF brand all metal radiator meant for a 92, I think. Radiator hoses are the same as stock. I eliminated the vacuum actuated heater core valve and used generic heater hose to connect directly to the heater core, and just plugged the vacuum line. Careful taking the old hoses off! Slit it lengthwise and peel it off so you don't damage the heater core. While you have the hoses off, flush the heater core back and forth with a hose until it runs clean. One of the heater core connectors is larger and I just used some heat and forced a socket into the end of the hose to stretch it out until I could slip it on. I forget which was which, if you look at the stock setup the supply hose should be on the bottom so it fills from the bottom and doesn't trap air. You can get generic overflow bottles at the auto store for $15. I grabbed one for a couple bucks at the junkyard and fabbed a cheap bracket.

Cut the upper hose and shorten it to take the Moroso filler.
Take your heater hoses out. Install new heater hoses keeping in mind you're gonna need to splice in the old one that goes down to the water pump.
Install the recovery tank and run a hose from it to the filler neck.

Yes, you are. Cabin heat is controlled by vacuum operated doors, not by coolant flow.