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Hose Kits?

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Old 04-27-2018, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Batman33165
*****REVIVING AN OLD THREAD***** so that there is no confusion

Hey ELMartillo, would you have any more scrap to put together another bracket like that? And if you did, how much would you sell it? Im in the dallas, tx area though so shipping please also
I’m on the road currently, could get to it in a few weeks though. I’d have to buy materials but the cost is in the time it takes to make it. How’s $40 shipped, you paint it?

Cheers!
Old 04-27-2018, 12:21 PM
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yeah... sounds good, you have a deal!!!
Old 10-29-2018, 03:19 PM
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Hey @ElMartillo

Just wondering how this setup has held up so far. I've got a 1989 Cherokee with the closed cooling system that keeps losing coolant. I know the truck doesn't have a bad head gasket, and personally I think that the cap on the bottle is leaking allowing it to overflow. Either way I want to get rid of the whole thing and just go to an open system! Did you notice any operating temperature changes when you did the conversion?

Also along with Batman, if your still using this system I would like one of those baskets as well! $40 shipped sounds good to me.

Thanks!
Old 10-29-2018, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by willd
Hey @ElMartillo

Just wondering how this setup has held up so far. I've got a 1989 Cherokee with the closed cooling system that keeps losing coolant. I know the truck doesn't have a bad head gasket, and personally I think that the cap on the bottle is leaking allowing it to overflow. Either way I want to get rid of the whole thing and just go to an open system! Did you notice any operating temperature changes when you did the conversion?

Also along with Batman, if your still using this system I would like one of those baskets as well! $40 shipped sounds good to me.

Thanks!

I've done 3 of them. Runs like it should.
Old 10-30-2018, 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by willd
Hey @ElMartillo

Just wondering how this setup has held up so far. I've got a 1989 Cherokee with the closed cooling system that keeps losing coolant. I know the truck doesn't have a bad head gasket, and personally I think that the cap on the bottle is leaking allowing it to overflow. Either way I want to get rid of the whole thing and just go to an open system! Did you notice any operating temperature changes when you did the conversion?

Also along with Batman, if your still using this system I would like one of those baskets as well! $40 shipped sounds good to me.

Thanks!
As Cruiser said, works well and is holding up like it’s factory.. if I were to do it again I would consider putting in a later model year radiator with the filler in it.

I’ve been working 12 hour days lately, and all my free time has been spent renovating my 1st floor apartment. I should have some time coming up, so I’ll make a few of those baskets and post here when available. Batman has been very patient, and I appreciate it.

cheers guys!
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:08 AM
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No problem, i know life gets in the way...

Trust me, i have been busy as well... barely worked on my jeep with a 2nd kid, new house, holidays, and trip to germany.... But i am glad i have not been forgotten.
Old 10-30-2018, 03:24 PM
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NR 2802 radiator from Napa is about $120. If yours is old, start with that instead of the inline cap from Moroso.
Old 10-30-2018, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
NR 2802 radiator from Napa is about $120. If yours is old, start with that instead of the inline cap from Moroso.
I'm going to go with the NR 2802 radiator. Mine is original and I'm one of those guys that just likes to do it all while I can. I plan on doing the water pump, fan clutch, radiator, thermostat, radiator & heater hoses and then the closed to open conversion. I also plan to do away with the troublesome heater valve.
Old 10-30-2018, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ElMartillo

As Cruiser said, works well and is holding up like it’s factory.. if I were to do it again I would consider putting in a later model year radiator with the filler in it.

I’ve been working 12 hour days lately, and all my free time has been spent renovating my 1st floor apartment. I should have some time coming up, so I’ll make a few of those baskets and post here when available. Batman has been very patient, and I appreciate it.

cheers guys!
Sweet! Thanks for the heads up. Let me know whenever you get around to making some of them!
Old 03-02-2019, 10:55 AM
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Default Reviving old thread

Does anyone have a step by step on this? I need to replace all my hoses and just ordered a whole bunch of stuff only to come across this and want to go this route. I hit the cruiser54 page for a write up but it looks as if it’s not there yet.

Just looking for steps. I see the parts list.

Thanks in advance!
Old 03-02-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Rgniady81
Does anyone have a step by step on this? I need to replace all my hoses and just ordered a whole bunch of stuff only to come across this and want to go this route. I hit the cruiser54 page for a write up but it looks as if it’s not there yet.

Just looking for steps. I see the parts list.

Thanks in advance!
I converted my 89 many years ago. I used a CSF brand all metal radiator meant for a 92, I think. Radiator hoses are the same as stock. I eliminated the vacuum actuated heater core valve and used generic heater hose to connect directly to the heater core, and just plugged the vacuum line. Careful taking the old hoses off! Slit it lengthwise and peel it off so you don't damage the heater core. While you have the hoses off, flush the heater core back and forth with a hose until it runs clean. One of the heater core connectors is larger and I just used some heat and forced a socket into the end of the hose to stretch it out until I could slip it on. I forget which was which, if you look at the stock setup the supply hose should be on the bottom so it fills from the bottom and doesn't trap air. You can get generic overflow bottles at the auto store for $15. I grabbed one for a couple bucks at the junkyard and fabbed a cheap bracket.
Old 03-02-2019, 11:59 AM
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Default Re: old thread

thanks! I was actually specifically looking for how it was converted via the method mentioned above. My radiator is really new, less than 5k on it so I was hoping to just do the inline fill method for now and then when it’s time swap the radiator over. I get the portion of eliminating the heater valve. That looks simple enough, longer hoses straight to the heater core and cap the vacuum line. What I’m missing is the return line to the bottle. Hoping Cruiser54 will chime in on it soon. Unless you have a diagram. I imagine it’s all the same wether I fill via a tap into the lines or via the radiator.
Old 03-02-2019, 12:52 PM
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Cut the upper hose and shorten it to take the Moroso filler.
Take your heater hoses out. Install new heater hoses keeping in mind you're gonna need to splice in the old one that goes down to the water pump.
Install the recovery tank and run a hose from it to the filler neck.
Old 03-02-2019, 02:06 PM
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Default Re: Crusier

i just went back and looked at the photos and see how the recovery line runs so I think I have it sorted out. One question though, with hooking the hoses straight to the heater core, would this give me hot air flowing in the cabin all the time? I’m not sure how this will affect A/C essentially. Am I missing something?
Old 03-02-2019, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Rgniady81
i just went back and looked at the photos and see how the recovery line runs so I think I have it sorted out. One question though, with hooking the hoses straight to the heater core, would this give me hot air flowing in the cabin all the time? I’m not sure how this will affect A/C essentially. Am I missing something?
Yes, you are. Cabin heat is controlled by vacuum operated doors, not by coolant flow.


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