Help with rear wheel bearings.
#1
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Year: 2000
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Help with rear wheel bearings.
Hey guys I did some searching but I'm still a bit confused.
I have a 2000 XJ that needs new wheel bearings in the rear. I was told by a friend I have a Dana 35 in the back, could someone verify this? Also if someone could direct me to a write up on how this is done that would be great!
I have a 2000 XJ that needs new wheel bearings in the rear. I was told by a friend I have a Dana 35 in the back, could someone verify this? Also if someone could direct me to a write up on how this is done that would be great!
#2
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I wonder why you need new wheel bearings...oil leaking into the drums?
If you have a D35, you're better off swapping rear axles to an 8.25. seriously.
Here's a pic showing diffcovers, factory axle would be a turdy5 or 8.25 in 2000, they phased out the good axle in 2000.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...6/#post1795879
If you have a D35, you're better off swapping rear axles to an 8.25. seriously.
Here's a pic showing diffcovers, factory axle would be a turdy5 or 8.25 in 2000, they phased out the good axle in 2000.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/bro...6/#post1795879
#3
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Judging by that guide I have an 8.25...glad I asked!
I'm getting squeeking when I go around corners, not a ton but it's annoying. No oil in the drums.
I'm getting squeeking when I go around corners, not a ton but it's annoying. No oil in the drums.
#4
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dana 35 and the 8.25 are very similar in shape. but the 8.25 has a flat bottom of the diff section.
also, if you have abs, you have the d35. if not, you might have the 8.25.
also, if you have abs, you have the d35. if not, you might have the 8.25.
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In addition to the picture I also found the axel to be marked as a chrysler 8.25 on a a band right behind the right wheel that I never noticed before. No ABS.
#6
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ok, so you have to pull the wheels and drums, undo the brakes, remove the 4 bolts on the backing plate, drain the diff fluid, remove diff cover, remove c-clips by pushing in the axle to release the pressure, pull the shafts, take to a shop with a press, knock off bearings and press new ones on.
reverse order above to reinstall.
that's about the just of it, may need another step or so. been a while since i've done it.
reverse order above to reinstall.
that's about the just of it, may need another step or so. been a while since i've done it.
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ok, so you have to pull the wheels and drums, undo the brakes, remove the 4 bolts on the backing plate, drain the diff fluid, remove diff cover, remove c-clips by pushing in the axle to release the pressure, pull the shafts, take to a shop with a press, knock off bearings and press new ones on.
reverse order above to reinstall.
that's about the just of it, may need another step or so. been a while since i've done it.
reverse order above to reinstall.
that's about the just of it, may need another step or so. been a while since i've done it.
The C clip part seems the same for both but for whatever reason no one has any pictures of that step. Do you just push on the axle from the outside into the dif? Will I need another guy for this part?
#9
Hmmm...Well I did some more googling. Are you sure that's not the method for the 35? I found a couple vids that show the 8.25 bearing being a press fit inside the tubes not on the axle itself. The guy just used a slide hammer to pull them an then pressed in the new ones with a big socket and a mallet.
The C clip part seems the same for both but for whatever reason no one has any pictures of that step. Do you just push on the axle from the outside into the dif? Will I need another guy for this part?
The C clip part seems the same for both but for whatever reason no one has any pictures of that step. Do you just push on the axle from the outside into the dif? Will I need another guy for this part?
#10
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yeah, you're right. forgot about that. 8.25 is in the axle tube.
when you push the axle shaft in after you take out the cross pin, the c-clip should just fall out.
it might get hung up in the spider gears, but you'll know it's out when you can pull the shaft out.
when you push the axle shaft in after you take out the cross pin, the c-clip should just fall out.
it might get hung up in the spider gears, but you'll know it's out when you can pull the shaft out.
#12
Old fart with a wrench
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Last edited by dave1123; 01-12-2018 at 12:55 PM.
#13
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I second the axle thing.
The process is the same on 35 and the 8.25
Unless you get lucky enough to have bolt in axles like the early d35 then it's rare you need axles.
I can't find where anyone's broke a bolt in 35 axle, maybe if your running 35 or larger tires.
The process is the same on 35 and the 8.25
Unless you get lucky enough to have bolt in axles like the early d35 then it's rare you need axles.
I can't find where anyone's broke a bolt in 35 axle, maybe if your running 35 or larger tires.
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Before jumping to the conclusion that the bearings are bad, pop the drums off and make sure you don't have a ton of brake dust kicking around in there. I had that happen in my TJ and it made a squeaky sound.
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