lost a key in my 350 just fished a magnet around in there till i pulled it out no need to remove oil pan!!

 

Heres a video of the movement, not the best audio or video quality as it was shot from my phone but it should be enough to show what I am talking about. The bolt for the HB is tight, motor starts up and runs fine, no knocks or anything of the like...its a 4.0/auto if that matters.


Any help is appreciated, I sold my mustang to pay the mortgage, catch up some behind bills and had enough to buy what I thought was a decent Jeep, just needed cosmetic work. My work is really slow right now with the economy so hoping this is something I can tackle myself, I just dont have the funds for major repairs right now.

 

I think it's safe to say if that bolt is tight, AND THE BOLT is moving, and the torque plate isn't, the crank is broken. Can you feel in there to be sure the pulley isn't moving relative to the bolt? It's as if your bolt is too long, or the replacement pulley is not as thick as the original, or a washer got left out....

Like I said, I did have one break right there after the first main. (on a Fiat). Becausre it broke on a diagonal the shaft would still spin the pulley. It knocked.

 

I will have to drop the pan again, see if I can see anything out of place. The bolts the factory one, or at least the one that came off it, I even stuck another washer with it to see if it would draw anything up better but no go. If you listen you can kinda hear it hitting when I pull/push it. The sounds out of sync a hair but you can hear it and it sounds like its coming from directly behind the HB but in the oil pan. When I move it the bolt moves with the HB, the washer on it doesnt free spin so its remaining tight if that makes sense to you.

What I dont get is if it was the crank, or thrust bearing wouldnt the motor either not run, knock, run poorly or something? This runs just fine.

thanks again for continuing to try and help me.

 

You can put it to rest fairly easily. The little dust shield on the Bell-housing is just a few little bolts. (7/16,11mm. maybe). With that off you can see the torque plate. (or pull the starter, more hassle though). If the front of the crank is moving and the rear isn't, it's no longer in one piece.

""Because it broke on a diagonal the shaft would still spin the pulley. It knocked."" ^^

 

Drain iol and eather get a strong magnet and work it from the out side, Or buy one for bolts that pulls out and go threw the drain hole.

 

Alright, I see what your saying now...took a few posts to sink in lol. Getting ready to take my oldest son to his basketball game, I will pull it tomorrow evening and see what I can make out.

thanks

 

The issue isnt the key anymore, its the play in the crank, bearing..or, not sure yet. Thanks for the reply though.

 

Right on...the bolt moving is bad news one way or the other. I doubt a thrust bearing would allow that much...but there's hope, maybe. Don't loose us!

 

The nose of the crank should only be a skosh further back than the face of the balancer with the bolt removed.

 

Could a spacer been left on the garage floor and be missing from behind the damper?

 

you state here a sllight difference in the front design could it be the front is thinner thus letting the bolt bottom out in the crank not touching the dampner in the front???

 

I hadn't noticed a spacer behind it, do we have one on these Jeeps?

Thanks

 

x2 thrust bearing do 1000th of inchs not 1/4 inch

 

was not on mine