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Help. Over heating.

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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 07:32 AM
  #31  
AVjeeper's Avatar
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From: Whittier, Ca
Year: 1989
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Engine: 4.0L
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Replaced the thermostat, Water Pump, Serpentine Belt & Idler Pulley (AC doesn't squeel anymore), New Coolant.
Drove from L.A. to Rosamond up the 14 FWY. Still running about 225-230 going uphill on the freeway only. I can drive around town all day at 210.

I've got 314,000 miles. For the cost and effort to replace a head, I'm thinking I might as well just replace the whole engine.
$1600 plus labor? I live in apt so I don't have the space or the time to pull the engine myself.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #32  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Have u replaced the radiator and fan clutch?....<$150.
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 11:11 AM
  #33  
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From: Whittier, Ca
Year: 1989
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Originally Posted by djb383
Have u replaced the radiator and fan clutch?....<$150.
Replaced radiator back in November (old one was leaking from the side but not overheating). This overheating thing just started a month ago. Fan clutch turns with resistance by hand when eng is off. I thought the Fan Clutch free spins at highway speed?
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:41 PM
  #34  
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From: everett, wa
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by SpunksterXJ
I have water wetter in mine and it still didnt help. Makes me think those things are a lie...I am gonna go and order a 180 degree t-stat. Lets think about this for a sec....
Since we are both overheating at high rates of speed and the temp is way over the t-stat opening temp then...isn't the t-stat fully opened? If it is then it will not matter what t-stat you put in. In my opinion it would all boil down to not enough air flow coming across the radiator. I have a winch and bumper that could be restricting air flow. I am gonna put some pics up on my profile in a sec and if you wanna take a look to see if maybe it is causing a problem then be my guest!
Ok it's easier to keep 160deg water below 200deg than 200deg water below 200deg......think about it. That being the reason for a t stat that opens up faster. And im not here to have battles of whits with unarmed opponents only to throw out things I believe HELP
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Old Jun 3, 2012 | 09:52 PM
  #35  
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by AVjeeper
........Fan clutch turns with resistance by hand when eng is off. I thought the Fan Clutch free spins at highway speed?
Spin test is weak at best.....they loose efficiency with age/miles. The XJ fan clutch is a thermal type clutch, not a rpm sensing clutch. If the cooling system is functioning correctly at hi-way speed, the fan clutch should be freewheeling however, if it senses high enough air temp coming off the radiator, it will engage regardless of vehicle speed, again, if functioning correctly.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 04:48 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Ellefsonb
Ok it's easier to keep 160deg water below 200deg than 200deg water below 200deg......think about it. That being the reason for a t stat that opens up faster. And im not here to have battles of whits with unarmed opponents only to throw out things I believe HELP
I'm sorry, but your reasoning is faulty.
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Old Jun 4, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #37  
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From: Edmonton
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Ellefsonb

Ok it's easier to keep 160deg water below 200deg than 200deg water below 200deg......think about it. That being the reason for a t stat that opens up faster. And im not here to have battles of whits with unarmed opponents only to throw out things I believe HELP
LOL

My 'whit' is bigger than yours anyways....

Last edited by hankthetank; Jun 4, 2012 at 05:20 PM.
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Old Jun 8, 2012 | 09:33 PM
  #38  
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From: st. george
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
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Still overheating. I dont know what else to do.
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Old Jun 9, 2012 | 11:01 PM
  #39  
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4L I6 MPI "Power Tech HO"
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Originally Posted by cashmoney11
Still overheating. I dont know what else to do.
Have you tried an IR gun to check if your temp switch is working correctly. You could be measuring wrong. I think I am gonna do that too. I just bout 3 elec fans to put on my XJ. Will let you know what happens.
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Old Jun 10, 2012 | 05:51 AM
  #40  
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do you know for sure your radiator fins are clean? power wash them recently? debris can reduce cooling efficiency.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 09:17 AM
  #41  
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cashmoney11
In the first post you stated you installed a new radiator a year ago. What size and mfg? ie. 2-row or 3-row etc.? Back in Nov, I replaced my 3-row (leaking from side tank but not running hot) with a 2-row. Trying to save some cash. Now coming into the summer I'm running hot going up hill (driving up the 14-fwy from LA to Mojave). Never ran over 215* with the 3-row in 8 years. I'm going to order another 3-row CSF and see what happens.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:06 AM
  #42  
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From: North Las Vegas, NV
Year: 1992
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Originally Posted by AVjeeper
cashmoney11
In the first post you stated you installed a new radiator a year ago. What size and mfg? ie. 2-row or 3-row etc.? Back in Nov, I replaced my 3-row (leaking from side tank but not running hot) with a 2-row. Trying to save some cash. Now coming into the summer I'm running hot going up hill (driving up the 14-fwy from LA to Mojave). Never ran over 215* with the 3-row in 8 years. I'm going to order another 3-row CSF and see what happens.
Please do let us know! I have a 2 row but if that cures your problem then I will switch to one too.
Still working on my fans....trying to find time but here is a pic of the fans im gonna install.

Help. Over heating.-forumrunner_20120611_090611.jpg
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 11:26 AM
  #43  
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From: Florence, Al.
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O.
Default good burp

I have this prob with mine in the past , scanned through all the forums and listened to 100 different possibilities ( which were all good suggestions) But my problem came down to a THOROUGH burp of the system. Trapped air in the system will give you a hell of a problem. Sounds simple but is often overlooked.
Fill your system to proper levels, while vehicle is running and rad cap removed, pump the upper hose with you hand (watch out for the damn fan an rotating belts!) to help move the water through and hopefully free any trapped air pockets. Do this at initial startup temps and after warmed up. Before the jeep gets overheated try driving around a bit- up a hill, down a hill, side to side. Then return to the shop and see if some more air is released, pump the hose some more. Whenever you think it is burped, do it some more.

I have a 92 with a lil over 200K and drive it 70 miles daily with temps not exceeding 190 ( stock rad, cap, reagular coolant,thermostat). sitting on 6.5" of lift and running 35s. temps barely rise when sitting in traffic or on the trails.

Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 12:15 PM
  #44  
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Out of curiosity, how do u tell it never exceeds 190F and r u running a stock 195F t-stat?
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Old Jun 11, 2012 | 01:14 PM
  #45  
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From: Springfield, MA
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Im surprised no one mentioned the fact that it could be due to his a/c condenser. The one on my first XJ was falling apart and causing less air to get through to my radiator. I'd pop off the front cowl and take a look at that, maybe think about getting rid of it. My a/c works great but i have yet to feel the need for it so i'm thinking of doing the same. I run at 190 on the highway but in traffic she'll go up to 210-220.
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