Help with my rear main please ?
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6cyl W/ UPGRADE BOSH INJECTORS AND BORED THROTLE BODY
Help with my rear main please ?
OK , so i do most the work on my stuff but this rear main on my 92 inline 6cyl is verry intimidating ..... i priced it at the shop and they want like $600 so i think ima tackle this myself and im geting conflickting stories , the manuel says i need to remove trany or whole engine, but the shop says its posible without taking eather out so im hoping somone has some info that mite help thanks........
#2
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You shpuld be able to do it by just removing the oil pan. May wanna replace the oil pump while in there, too.
I gotta swap my trans so I plan to do both right away since I'm already there.
I gotta swap my trans so I plan to do both right away since I'm already there.
#3
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Year: 1992
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Engine: 4.0L HO
I just replaced mine a month ago. All i had to do was remove the oil pan. I jacked the jeep up and put jackstands under the body so the frontend would droop down and give more room to slide the oilpan out. Also go ahead and take out the 2 starter bolts also so it'll make dropping the pan easier . All you need is a new seal, oil pan gasket, and oil/filter. It's an aggrivating job.
#4
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Year: 1990
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My standard reply:
I'd be looking up above first. A leak at the back of the valve cover could produce the same symptoms. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon just yet.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for 2 simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and oil will run back to that area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 3-23-2012
I'd be looking up above first. A leak at the back of the valve cover could produce the same symptoms. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon just yet.
Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for 2 simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and oil will run back to that area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill".
Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket have to be eliminated as possibilities first.
Revised 3-23-2012
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If your there doing a trans and oil pan do you suggest doing the rear main and oil pump as well?
I'm staring all this in the face right now, so it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
I'm staring all this in the face right now, so it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
#6
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Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
If your there doing a trans and oil pan do you suggest doing the rear main and oil pump as well?
I'm staring all this in the face right now, so it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
I'm staring all this in the face right now, so it'd be nice to hear your thoughts.
#7
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#9
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Year: 1992
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rear main DID NOT fix oil leak
ok so so far i have replaced the valve cover gasket , the oil pan gasket , the rear main seal , the distributer seal and STILL dripping oil off the seam between the tranny and motor ,,,,,,,,,,,,,any help ?
#11
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#13
i know we all have our favs for RTV but i am personally sold on the right stuff from permatex. i have yet to have a job fail with this stuff. with the rtv black i've had a few pinhole leaks over the years. you also have that 24hr wait with black. the right stuff you can run in an hour
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