Quote:
Spin slightly turn left to right no not at all.Originally Posted by freegdr
wheels hard to turn ?
Quote:
Well according to the POs paper work the caliper was replaced 40,000 +/- miles ago and the pads are like 17, miles in? I just took the rotors to be turned because they neeeded it anyways? Should I change the pads they look crappy IDK but I was thinking of picking up the lifetime ceramic pads from autozone.Originally Posted by Radi
The pads only retract a tiny bit when you let off the brakes, they are normally just a hair's width off the rotor. Anything sticking in the caliper or piston can hold them up against the rotor enough to make noise. It isn't uncommon with brand new pads, esp. if the caliper pistons haven't been that far back in their bores for a while. The tiniest bit of rust or corrosion... worse if the dust seals are bad.
CF Veteran
Quote:
if your in there all ready do it get pads it calls forOriginally Posted by Rearwardassist
Well according to the POs paper work the caliper was replaced 40,000 +/- miles ago and the pads are like 17, miles in? I just took the rotors to be turned because they neeeded it anyways? Should I change the pads they look crappy IDK but I was thinking of picking up the lifetime ceramic pads from autozone.
Thats what I was thinking too. Try that out see how it does what are the ill effects of not bedding brakes properly?
CF Veteran
Quote:
wwhen replacing pads no brake bleeding is needed.Originally Posted by Rearwardassist
Thats what I was thinking too. Try that out see how it does what are the ill effects of not bedding brakes properly?
No I meant bedding like braking them in. Anyways got the new pads on and the rotors turned and now its still rubbing it pretty good hard to turn. My father in law said he thinks it the caliper anyone else have an opinion? Thanks
CF Veteran
Bedding them is supposed to seat the pad to the rotor, but I've never bothered. Hasn't made a difference that I've noticed.
A couple things to check:
The knuckle ledges where the edge of the pads sit (see drawing below)- are they smooth? Not rough or notched? Pads have to be able to slide on that ledge. After some miles they can develop a notch the pads catch on.
Does the caliper itself slide without sticking or binding?
How are the rubber brake lines? Sometimes they flake inside and create a one-way valve that holds the caliper.
A couple things to check:
The knuckle ledges where the edge of the pads sit (see drawing below)- are they smooth? Not rough or notched? Pads have to be able to slide on that ledge. After some miles they can develop a notch the pads catch on.
Does the caliper itself slide without sticking or binding?
How are the rubber brake lines? Sometimes they flake inside and create a one-way valve that holds the caliper.
Quote:
A couple things to check:
The knuckle ledges where the edge of the pads sit (see drawing below)- are they smooth? Not rough or notched? Pads have to be able to slide on that ledge. After some miles they can develop a notch the pads catch on.
Does the caliper itself slide without sticking or binding?
How are the rubber brake lines? Sometimes they flake inside and create a one-way valve that holds the caliper.
The knuckle ledges look good, is there a good way to check the brake lines I think that if it had a blockage like that it would stick when I depress the brake all the way, which it doesnt it just doesnt seem to reset to the proper location.Originally Posted by Radi
Bedding them is supposed to seat the pad to the rotor, but I've never bothered. Hasn't made a difference that I've noticed. A couple things to check:
The knuckle ledges where the edge of the pads sit (see drawing below)- are they smooth? Not rough or notched? Pads have to be able to slide on that ledge. After some miles they can develop a notch the pads catch on.
Does the caliper itself slide without sticking or binding?
How are the rubber brake lines? Sometimes they flake inside and create a one-way valve that holds the caliper.
