natexjnj

Over the weekend I went threw a hole that was alittle to much of my xj. I sunk it with about a foot of water on the inside :/ lucky for me I just added a snorkel the otherday witch saved my motor. Now that I got everything dryed some issues are starting to show. My tranny now seems to wanna shift whenever it wants to. Ill be driving down the road and randomly downshift. It shifts hard now and later then it normaly did before I turned it into a submerine. I'm thinking I have water in it maybe? Would water do that? Also I just replaced my oil pump last week because of a oil pressure problom witch putting a new oil pump in fixed it but now after I sunk it I'm when I come to a stop in drive the oil pressure goes to 0 psi. Could sinking my xj have done something to it? I'm thinking maybe the oil pressure gauge could be dirty or still wet or something making it read wrong. I have a 97 xj 4.0 auto trans. It ran and worked fine before I sunk it. If anyone can help I would really apreceiate it

Bustedback

Water+electronics=bad stuff happening.

timberwolf

how long was it under water?
the auto trans does not like water intrusion, check and change the fluid and oil

natexjnj

At most 45 mins I was stuck in the hole I was stuck pretty bad. Water was above my seats sitting like right at my shifter. With changeing the trans fuilds won't cause leaks iv read that doing a complete fuild change can cause probloms I only got the xj a few months back and don't know if the old ownjer ever did a trans fuild change

tjwalker

Always change your fluids with a full dunking. Fluids are cheap and if you have any water intrusion, if you don't get fresh fluids in there, you will be replacing major components.

Also, the "throttle position sensor" could be responsible for your shifting problems. The input signals from that sensor are directly related to the shifting characteristics of the AW4. And the TPS HATES water! Here is more
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The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad

You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT.

Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS.

The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: -

NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected!

• Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting".
• High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom.
• Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly.
• Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine.
• Engine Misfire: A fault TPS can report values outside the deined acceptable range causing the ECU to incorrectly fuel the engine. This is noticable as a slight misfire and can trigger the misfire detection software and/or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) light on the dashboard. Extreme cases can cause excessing misfires resulting in one or more cylinders being shut down to prevent engine and catalytic converter damage.

crbnfibr

pretty sure i have this, but copy, thanks tj

crbnfibr

oh and tj what would the symptoms be if it was 5dp? same besides sifting?

timberwolf

If you leave water in it, you will have bigger problems than leaks.
I remember reading in other posts, there is some adhesive inside the trans that is water soluble
Change the engine oil, front diff fluid and possibly transfer case

natexjnj

Ok I'm gonna go test the tps now see if that's wrong and ill do a fuild change asap. Ill repost to say what happened

natexjnj

I'm out here now and with my tester I'm reading 4.59v at idle and 4.94v at wot. At idle it should me grater then. At idle it should be greater then 200 millivolts witch would be 0.02? Or 0.002? In any case I'm reading 4 and a half volts at idle witch if I'm reading everything right the sensor is bad?

Rustydog555

Was there water in the trans you should have snorkeled the trans t-case and axles at least higher than the distrubiter There is also a speed sensor in the trans not related to ur speedo that screw up ur shifting

natexjnj

Yeah I didn't relize I had to snorkel all the other stuff too witch I'm gonna do this weekend and my speedo has not worked since I got the truck iv been trying to figure out where the senser is located at but now I know its on my tcase I'm going to change the fuilds this weekend when I get paid tomorrow I'm gonna drain all the fuilds so if there is water in there its not just sitting in there ****injg more crap up. I'm hopein I can find a working tps and a vss at the junk yard this weekend.