Help buying my 1st XJ
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Help buying my 1st XJ
Hi everyone,
Been reading here for a while since I'm on the market for a used XJ. This would be my 2nd jeep as i had owned a 05 cherokee with the gas guzzling 5.8 Hemi. Been looking everywhere for a good deal on a used 92-99 5 speed I6 and think i might have found one in my budget.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5813260474.html
I'll have to drive 2.5hrs away to see it and if it checks out will have to rent a trailer from uhaul to bring it to the house and register and insure it.
In your opinion, does it seem like a decent XJ? I'll be checking it for rust, all fluids, but the problem is I won't be able to drive it on the roads as its not registered. I do have extra cash for a full tune-up and some minor repairs as it is a 1992. What else should i look for? Thanks in advanced
Been reading here for a while since I'm on the market for a used XJ. This would be my 2nd jeep as i had owned a 05 cherokee with the gas guzzling 5.8 Hemi. Been looking everywhere for a good deal on a used 92-99 5 speed I6 and think i might have found one in my budget.
http://hudsonvalley.craigslist.org/cto/5813260474.html
I'll have to drive 2.5hrs away to see it and if it checks out will have to rent a trailer from uhaul to bring it to the house and register and insure it.
In your opinion, does it seem like a decent XJ? I'll be checking it for rust, all fluids, but the problem is I won't be able to drive it on the roads as its not registered. I do have extra cash for a full tune-up and some minor repairs as it is a 1992. What else should i look for? Thanks in advanced
Last edited by Gotyoulooking; 10-09-2016 at 05:45 PM.
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Boston
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
On first glance, I would say... there are better deals out there. It is worth checking out though.
But on a more serious note. I bought my XJ for $1400 and it was running fine and driving fine, with $126k miles on it with not warning lights. Then things just started going wrong. 2 years in I have probably spent about $3k just on repairs, repairing regular things just so I could get to work. The point is you want to get one in great shape, because anything less that is going to be a major headache and not worth the money.
This one does not seem like its in that great of a shape and is not that great of a deal. Also, you really need to be able to drive it if you are buying one. There are so many problems that could be hiding in that drive train. Worn U-joints, broken power steering pump, the death wobble. So my personal advice is to stay away.
The main issues is that it is 24 years old and with 300k miles. It does look clean on the inside which is a plus, but the missing muffles, broken windshield, broken cruise control, and that strap they are using to keep the hood closed are not good confidence boosters. That's $500 you need to put in up front just to be able to get it inspected.
If it really has no rust, its worth a look, but I do not see how that is possible unless its an out of state car, since all XJ's have plenty of rust in the Northeast.
Compare it to this one I found with a similar price, 5 years newer, and with 100k less miles on the clock. Hell, even if thats a 5 hour drive for you, it would be worth it because replacing that muffler alone may run into a 3 - 5 hour job. When things get old, metal rusts, rubber rots, seals leak, and electricals fail.
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5820543366.html
Also, if you want to know what is the best variant of the XJ to buy in general, the video below gives a pretty good overview of the different years and their differences.
But on a more serious note. I bought my XJ for $1400 and it was running fine and driving fine, with $126k miles on it with not warning lights. Then things just started going wrong. 2 years in I have probably spent about $3k just on repairs, repairing regular things just so I could get to work. The point is you want to get one in great shape, because anything less that is going to be a major headache and not worth the money.
This one does not seem like its in that great of a shape and is not that great of a deal. Also, you really need to be able to drive it if you are buying one. There are so many problems that could be hiding in that drive train. Worn U-joints, broken power steering pump, the death wobble. So my personal advice is to stay away.
The main issues is that it is 24 years old and with 300k miles. It does look clean on the inside which is a plus, but the missing muffles, broken windshield, broken cruise control, and that strap they are using to keep the hood closed are not good confidence boosters. That's $500 you need to put in up front just to be able to get it inspected.
If it really has no rust, its worth a look, but I do not see how that is possible unless its an out of state car, since all XJ's have plenty of rust in the Northeast.
Compare it to this one I found with a similar price, 5 years newer, and with 100k less miles on the clock. Hell, even if thats a 5 hour drive for you, it would be worth it because replacing that muffler alone may run into a 3 - 5 hour job. When things get old, metal rusts, rubber rots, seals leak, and electricals fail.
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/5820543366.html
Also, if you want to know what is the best variant of the XJ to buy in general, the video below gives a pretty good overview of the different years and their differences.
#3
Senior Member
hatch is probably gonna rattle, cheap easy fix
poke the floorboard above the cat converter, prone to rust there, later models had heat shield from factory
no ac, needs windshield and muffler, and cruise fixed
thats $1000 jeep max.
when was the clutch done?
poke the floorboard above the cat converter, prone to rust there, later models had heat shield from factory
no ac, needs windshield and muffler, and cruise fixed
thats $1000 jeep max.
when was the clutch done?
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, much appreciated. Guess ill take a look at it atleast. In a bad spot right now as i need a car to get around with the winter coming and only owing a motorcycle. I'm not gonna settle for anything less than a decent XJ with a 5 speed. I have the tools and mechanical know how to fix things my self. Guess I'll keep looking.
#6
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#7
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The 5 speeds are rare. But there are some out there. For instance, just found this guy:
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5798278107.html
Just an example of what I would consider a good deal. Its old, but that mileage is extremely low. I would probably jump on it if I had a garage or a lot to keep it in. Just saying there seem to be plenty of XJ's out there, so you can get a decent one in that price range.
Couple more things to watch out for:
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5798278107.html
Just an example of what I would consider a good deal. Its old, but that mileage is extremely low. I would probably jump on it if I had a garage or a lot to keep it in. Just saying there seem to be plenty of XJ's out there, so you can get a decent one in that price range.
Couple more things to watch out for:
- Jeep switched up the transfer cases at one point. The later 90's ones have a more robust one - NP42 is the preferred one.
- Rear main seals tend to go bad around 100k+ miles. Look for oil covering the oil pan - although you can live with this
- If you hear a grinding noise coming from the engine, the water pump is bad - again around 100k+ miles - relatively cheap and simple to fix
- Check the aux coolant tank. If its very low, chances are there is a coolant leak.
- Check the serpentine belt pulleys to make sure they are good. Make sure the power steering one does not wobble and make sure the AC compressor is not binding.
- If it cranks for a while before starting, it could be a clogged fuel filter/bad fuel pump. You have to take the gas tank off to replace it.
- If you hear any kind of clunking while turning, one of the front axle U-joints could be bad. That's a cheap part, but a PITA fix.
- Look for brake fluid leaks where the master cylinder connects to the brake booster in the engine compartment on the driver's side. If its leaking, it could start binding up your brakes in hot weather
- Aside from that oil leaks, the XJ is pretty solid as far as being able to get you from A to B, assuming you have a little oil and coolant left in it.
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
The 5 speeds are rare. But there are some out there. For instance, just found this guy:
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5798278107.html
Just an example of what I would consider a good deal. Its old, but that mileage is extremely low. I would probably jump on it if I had a garage or a lot to keep it in. Just saying there seem to be plenty of XJ's out there, so you can get a decent one in that price range.
Couple more things to watch out for:
http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/5798278107.html
Just an example of what I would consider a good deal. Its old, but that mileage is extremely low. I would probably jump on it if I had a garage or a lot to keep it in. Just saying there seem to be plenty of XJ's out there, so you can get a decent one in that price range.
Couple more things to watch out for:
- Jeep switched up the transfer cases at one point. The later 90's ones have a more robust one - NP42 is the preferred one.
- Rear main seals tend to go bad around 100k+ miles. Look for oil covering the oil pan - although you can live with this
- If you hear a grinding noise coming from the engine, the water pump is bad - again around 100k+ miles - relatively cheap and simple to fix
- Check the aux coolant tank. If its very low, chances are there is a coolant leak.
- Check the serpentine belt pulleys to make sure they are good. Make sure the power steering one does not wobble and make sure the AC compressor is not binding.
- If it cranks for a while before starting, it could be a clogged fuel filter/bad fuel pump. You have to take the gas tank off to replace it.
- If you hear any kind of clunking while turning, one of the front axle U-joints could be bad. That's a cheap part, but a PITA fix.
- Look for brake fluid leaks where the master cylinder connects to the brake booster in the engine compartment on the driver's side. If its leaking, it could start binding up your brakes in hot weather
- Aside from that oil leaks, the XJ is pretty solid as far as being able to get you from A to B, assuming you have a little oil and coolant left in it.
#9
Senior Member
my 2 98s (bought 05 and 08) are auto, 180,000 miles plus on each, i replaced a OD solenoid on one and rebuilt the nss as well....
ive spent ~$1000 in transmission repairs on the stick, $100 between the 2 autos.
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2012
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I get it, auto's aren't cool, right? But what's the point? You gunna be rowin' gears down the road in your cherocar
All I'm saying is don't pass up, what could be, solid xj's just because they have auto's. That'd be pretty foolish.
#12
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Had to LOL at this! This couldn't be more false. The AW4 is insanely stout and you're more likely to find an XJ in much better shape for cheaper, equipped with an auto than you will a 5spd.
I get it, auto's aren't cool, right? But what's the point? You gunna be rowin' gears down the road in your cherocar
All I'm saying is don't pass up, what could be, solid xj's just because they have auto's. That'd be pretty foolish.
I get it, auto's aren't cool, right? But what's the point? You gunna be rowin' gears down the road in your cherocar
All I'm saying is don't pass up, what could be, solid xj's just because they have auto's. That'd be pretty foolish.
I have read that for heavy snow you want a Auto because it keeps the power to the wheels more even and when it comes to crawling autos are a better choice. I don't know if this is true but the logic does fit.
#13
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Had to LOL at this! This couldn't be more false. The AW4 is insanely stout and you're more likely to find an XJ in much better shape for cheaper, equipped with an auto than you will a 5spd.
I get it, auto's aren't cool, right? But what's the point? You gunna be rowin' gears down the road in your cherocar
All I'm saying is don't pass up, what could be, solid xj's just because they have auto's. That'd be pretty foolish.
I get it, auto's aren't cool, right? But what's the point? You gunna be rowin' gears down the road in your cherocar
All I'm saying is don't pass up, what could be, solid xj's just because they have auto's. That'd be pretty foolish.
#14
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do yourself a favor. Go find a cheap Honda or Toyota to get around in while you look for the right XJ.
You are in the worst possible situation to be buying a car.
#15
Junior Member
Thread Starter
What the difference between a cheep Honda, Toyota, and a Jeep? Sorry just trying to figure out your advice.