I'll tell you what part I don't get is the part of you getting bent over me asking questions.

I just wanted to make sure mine was working properly before I go buying and changing parts.

Do you understand now?

I wanted to know what area vents came out when switched to "heat".
Some people on here didn't know of the "heat" option and thought I was talking about the temp from cold-hot.

But if the heat option goes to your feet then it's all good.

 

Maybe that's why the control was changed and "heat" was eliminated......when the temp control **** is maxed, it'll blow just as hot from the dash and windshield vents as it does from the floor vents. So, if it blows equally hot from top, middle, bottom vents (temp **** maxed), which one is heat? LOL

 

Thats what I was tripping on, what is the purpose of "heat" when you can control the temp from cold to hot.

The whole reason I wanted to know all this information was because I wam flushing the cooling system and you have to run the heater on.

I also heard that when you turn off the unit the HCV closes.
Atleast it should anyway and mine is not, if it only closes when the a/c is on I will test this on monday.

 

Youre overthinking this...
Just put it on "Heat", "Vent", "Defrost" or "Bi-lev", temp to the red, run the motor to op temp, do your flush, and be happy...
Its not that hard.

 

I just turn it on high bi level or what ever and do it this way ...been doing it for years on many cars trucks........never have any issues the point it it does not matter just turn your heat on high no matter the setting

 

Seems like the temp ****/slide is the one that would trigger the HCV to open and allow coolant flow thru the heater core...no? When using a/c, will sliding the temp slide raise air temp at a vent?

To each his own, but I really prefer flushing the heater core, motor and rad all 3 separate from each other, using a garden hose. Virtually eliminates moving crud from one area to another. '97 up XJs don't have HCV so getting a good flush thru the heater core is a non-issue.....just remove the 2 heater hoses at the motor and stick the garden hose in one. My thinking is on '96 down (with HCV), the heater hoses could be carefully removed from the heater core tubes at the firewall and temporarily attach a couple of 2'-3' long pieces of heater hose to the heater core tubes and stick a garden hose in one of those. Just a thought.

 

LOL I know you guys are like WTF but I wanted to know if my HCV is working properly.

I will be happy when everything is working properly.

I know its not hard but its good to ask questions and see everyones answers.

 

if you wanted to do that you can remove the HCV and while this is out flush out the heater core with a water hose in both ports going in to the fire wall.I was getting very little heat until I did this now I got a blast furnace in my jeep... but while the HCV is out suck on the vacuum port and if you see the arm move its good but be careful when removing the HCV if its been on there for a long time more than likely its going to fall apart those HCV,s they use junk plastic to make them I broken many

 

My HCV is brand new and I am getting plenty of heat, I want to see it close.

I will check it out monday.

 

disconnect the vacuum line the engine does not have to be running youll see the arm move....

 

I did this and didn't see a change, but I will retry this tomorrrow.

The vacuum line is trashed anyway when I bought the Jeep.

Can this be bought at a shop?

 

the line? yes you can get it any where call around for prices for some reason hoses are just as expensive as gas

 

Yea the air line that goes to the HCV and cool man thanks I will get that replaced.

 

no problem I think you might have to get a roll and cut it your self thats what I did..Im not sure if they sell them all ready sized with the little black nipple on them they might. but I just cut my own length and used a little bigger size hose to fit over the plastic vacuum line and the vacuum nipple