Heat soak common in pre 2000s XJ?
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,413
Likes: 400
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Doesn't matter. IMO you need to get that fixed before anything.
That "smoke" you were talking about in the other thread was really steam? If the heater core is clogged is the radiator clogged too? Is the head gasket blown or head warped? Are bubbles in the radiator reservoir (there are scenarios where a blown head gasket is simply blowing into the cooling system)? Do you KNOW if the water pump was changed? Did the new one fall apart? Did somebody dump a half dozen bottles of Bar's Leak in there to fix a blown head gasket? I think if you tale the heater and radiator hoses off and back flush them you could see if they're plugged. Pull the water pump to inspect it and the internal area there.
That "smoke" you were talking about in the other thread was really steam? If the heater core is clogged is the radiator clogged too? Is the head gasket blown or head warped? Are bubbles in the radiator reservoir (there are scenarios where a blown head gasket is simply blowing into the cooling system)? Do you KNOW if the water pump was changed? Did the new one fall apart? Did somebody dump a half dozen bottles of Bar's Leak in there to fix a blown head gasket? I think if you tale the heater and radiator hoses off and back flush them you could see if they're plugged. Pull the water pump to inspect it and the internal area there.
Old fart with a wrench
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 14,398
Likes: 740
From: Manlius, east of Syracuse, NY
Year: 2000 XJ Sport & WJ Laredo
Model: Grand Cherokee (WJ)
Engine: 4.0L
I find it amazing you replaced the radiator and must not have flushed the system at the same time. Are you running straight water? A 50/50 mix actually cools better than water. After flushing the system, try putting spacers in the hood hinges to raise the rear of the hood 1" and see if it helps cool it. Hood louvers would help more. The problem with the XJ is lack of engine compartment airflow. Anything that helps improve that helps it run cooler. The thing with 00-01's is the cast iron exhaust manifolds retain heat longer and boil the fuel in the rail as well as the pre-cats heat. My 00 has that heat shield and it doesn't help much. It's just an aluminum blanket that sits on the manifold under the fuel rail. Some people have added a timer so the electric fan runs for several minutes after engine shut-down. They say it helps a lot.
Doesn't matter. IMO you need to get that fixed before anything.
That "smoke" you were talking about in the other thread was really steam? If the heater core is clogged is the radiator clogged too? Is the head gasket blown or head warped? Are bubbles in the radiator reservoir (there are scenarios where a blown head gasket is simply blowing into the cooling system)? Do you KNOW if the water pump was changed? Did the new one fall apart? Did somebody dump a half dozen bottles of Bar's Leak in there to fix a blown head gasket? I think if you tale the heater and radiator hoses off and back flush them you could see if they're plugged. Pull the water pump to inspect it and the internal area there.
That "smoke" you were talking about in the other thread was really steam? If the heater core is clogged is the radiator clogged too? Is the head gasket blown or head warped? Are bubbles in the radiator reservoir (there are scenarios where a blown head gasket is simply blowing into the cooling system)? Do you KNOW if the water pump was changed? Did the new one fall apart? Did somebody dump a half dozen bottles of Bar's Leak in there to fix a blown head gasket? I think if you tale the heater and radiator hoses off and back flush them you could see if they're plugged. Pull the water pump to inspect it and the internal area there.
I find it amazing you replaced the radiator and must not have flushed the system at the same time. Are you running straight water? A 50/50 mix actually cools better than water. After flushing the system, try putting spacers in the hood hinges to raise the rear of the hood 1" and see if it helps cool it. Hood louvers would help more. The problem with the XJ is lack of engine compartment airflow. Anything that helps improve that helps it run cooler. The thing with 00-01's is the cast iron exhaust manifolds retain heat longer and boil the fuel in the rail as well as the pre-cats heat. My 00 has that heat shield and it doesn't help much. It's just an aluminum blanket that sits on the manifold under the fuel rail. Some people have added a timer so the electric fan runs for several minutes after engine shut-down. They say it helps a lot.
I didn’t replace the radiator the previous owner did, he had all the receipts and verything plus I can see that the radiator is fairly new, being that it’s plastic parts a still shiny and the aluminium fins are still nice and Unbent and silver. I’m gunna do the flush today and replace the water pump, thermostat, and fan clutch to see if I can get it to run hotter if it doesn’t I’ll probably spring for the flowkooler water pump next and also get hood louvers
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,413
Likes: 400
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
...I’m noticing now that my jeep seems to get unusually hot when it starts to do this around 235-245 degrees from what my scan tool says... Also when that happens the coolant temp sensor is pegged at like 260 but once rev it up and get it running smoothly again then it shoots back to 230.
Yet.
BTW, any problems with the horn?
CF Veteran


Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 3,413
Likes: 400
From: Connecticut
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
When my jeep gets hot around 215-230 degrees it starts to have a tiny misfire, it’s so small you barely notice it but if you turn it off while it’s this hot and turn it back on again it runs like it’s misfiring on 3 cylinders and struggles to stay on. If I give it gas however and rev it for a min or two it’s starts to smooth out and go away..
IIWM next I would look for stuck injector(s).
Last night I did most of the cooling system, fan clutch, water pump, thermostat, coolant flush and it’s seems to run a little colder but still within the 220 range, that’s only if I am sitting for about 30 min with the AC on, in 57° weather so I still think it’s running hot, I also did a compression test on all cylinders and they all tested above 120 psi and not any higher than 150 psi so I guess I can rule out a blown head gasket. Next pay check I’ll try for a new radiator and see where that gets me and possibly order a flowkooler water pump and hood vents, I’m not sure what else I can do to make this things run colder? Also I haven’t had the misfire come up in all this testing yet.
Last edited by Ben Hesse; Feb 2, 2020 at 01:01 PM.
Also how accurate is the gauge on the dash? My scanner on my phone tells me my coolant is at 220-230 range but my gauge on the dash is just passed the middle 210 mark? I’m not sure which one to go off of
Well, based on your other thread, while one might argue the actually point of "overheating" (does that mean "blowing the radiator cap off"?) one can certainly make a case for "not normal":
Admittedly, we're not at the point in the algorithm that says pull the head off.
Yet.
BTW, any problems with the horn?
Admittedly, we're not at the point in the algorithm that says pull the head off.
Yet.
BTW, any problems with the horn?
nope horn works great, also I just did a compression test and all the cylinders are within spec between 120-150 psi so I don’t think it’s a head gasket
as far as the heat soak and miss fire have you checked the fuel preasure I had what I thought was heat soak and misfire when it got warmed up if you let it set and idle very long turned out to be low fuel preasure changed the fuel pump and haven't a problem since.
and it never set any codes
and it never set any codes
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