you can repair it with fibreglass, bit of a hassle if you havent worked with firbreglass before

what you need is fiberglass in a hairy matt, mixer, and some auto body filler.

try not to make the surface lumpy, as any irregularity shows thru the fabric, so has to be fixed

an alternative is to pull a better one from a wrecker

 

I've done this repair on my headliner board. I just used a regular fibreglass kit; no body filler. I think it was this kit, but I used the bondo for something else so you could probably buy the components individually and skip the bondo.

https://www.3mcanada.ca/3M/en_CA/com...4529206&rt=rud

You will also need:

• Ventilation
• Cheap paint brushes
• Paper or plastic cups. Avoid cups with wax liner in them.
• Latex gloves
• Stirring sticks - I used bamboo kabob skewers because they were cheap and available
• Any PPE recommended by the product manufacturer

Some tips:

• Plan on spending days on this - don't rush it. My headliner took me 3 weekends, including the fibreglass and upholstery. It takes time to cure. It's also the kind of thing you don't want to do with a "hot head" so if things are messing up it's best to just walk away and come back later.
• Pre-cut the fibreglass to size BEFORE you mix the resin
• The "fuzzy" stuff in the headliner will stick to your brush so be careful not to get into a mess with it.
  • I found that if it was particularly fuzzy then I poured the resin on the headliner board then laid the fibreglass on top. Then I poured and brushed the resin into the fibreglass.
  • Work QUICKLY. Once the resin starts to get tacky its hard enough with fibreglass (the brush will stick to the glass matt and it'll be a huge headache) but with the headliner board the fuzzy stuff will get all matted and gunky. If the resin gets tacky then ditch the resin and make some more (eg: just put the cup aside, let it cure and make more in a new cup and get a new brush, new gloves, new everything).
• When laying up fibreglass you want to make sure the glass is fully soaked with resin, but not dripping wet. Usually I use the brush to "jab" or "stipple" the resin into the fibreglass. But when you do this, if the resin is tacky as above it'll result in the fibreglass coming up.
• Don't worry about the corners or holes in the headliner. Let the fibreglass span small gaps, and work around large gaps with multiple pieces. Then trim the edges with a dremel (cut off wheel) once everything is cured.
• Do one side at a time. Do the top one day, then let that cure. Then flip the board and do the bottom another day. If you flip it while the 'glass is wet it will slump and fall off.
• Don't be afraid to do only part of each side a day - you can always do half the top, walk away, come back and do the other half of the top if you want. Don't feel like you have to do it all in one go. Just realize that it either has to still be "wet' (not tacky) or fully cured for you to work with it.

The biggest challenge is patience with this but it can turn out quite good if you just take your time. My headliner board is in great shape now and the headliner material stuck to it very well with no issues. If you are careful and just lay the matt on you can avoid big lumps. If you use a proper headliner material (and not fleece or something else) then any small edges from the fibreglass will be hidden by the foam. If you've got some bigger lumps or edges then you might need bondo. But still - I found this much less frustrating than finding yet *another* donor headliner board.