Head Bolts
#1
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L inline six
Head Bolts
Okay I will be ordering a new head from clearwater cylinder heads tomorrow it will be here Saturday im hoping. Well before it gets here i would like to find out what order the bolts go in the head?
Last edited by JeepsMyName; 06-02-2013 at 07:11 PM. Reason: got new head bolts
#2
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Model: Cherokee
Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten bolts in sequence:
Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolt 11 to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
Tighten bolts in sequence:
Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolt 11 to 135 Nm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
#3
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Laredo
Also, one of the bolts goes thru the water jacket.. I think it's #7, but i'm not sure. You'll need some sealant on that one. 'Non teflon' type is best so as to not affect the torque specs. Under torqued is better than over torqued
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I am curious - has anyone tried standard SAE8 HHCS or SHCS for the cylinder head screws?
Just about every FSM I've opened shows those screws as a "modified torque-to-yield" screw (only good for two full torque cycles!) but the ones I've seen are marked as standard SAE8 screws.
I know that neither HHCS or SHCS will have the "stud top" for down the driver's side of the engine - but that's not strictly necessary anyhow, and improvisations can be made to work around it.
Given what I've seen so far, I don't see any particular reason why a standard good-quality SAE8 (not Chinese counterfeits) wouldn't work, but I haven't had an opportunity to try it yet.
HHCS = Hex Head CapScrew
SHCS = Socket Head CapScrew
Just about every FSM I've opened shows those screws as a "modified torque-to-yield" screw (only good for two full torque cycles!) but the ones I've seen are marked as standard SAE8 screws.
I know that neither HHCS or SHCS will have the "stud top" for down the driver's side of the engine - but that's not strictly necessary anyhow, and improvisations can be made to work around it.
Given what I've seen so far, I don't see any particular reason why a standard good-quality SAE8 (not Chinese counterfeits) wouldn't work, but I haven't had an opportunity to try it yet.
HHCS = Hex Head CapScrew
SHCS = Socket Head CapScrew
#7
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Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.
Coat the threads of the stud bolt in the # 11 position with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent, before installation.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 29 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Recheck all cylinder head bolts at 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts (except # 11) to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque and tighten bolt # 11 to 135 Nm (100ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
NOTE: Clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter a set of bolts which were painted during an earlier servicing operation, replace them.
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#8
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Right from the shop manual.
CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.
Coat the threads of the stud bolt in the # 11 position with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent, before installation.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 29 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Recheck all cylinder head bolts at 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts (except # 11) to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque and tighten bolt # 11 to 135 Nm (100ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
NOTE: Clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter a set of bolts which were painted during an earlier servicing operation, replace them.
CAUTION: Cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.
Coat the threads of the stud bolt in the # 11 position with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent, before installation.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 29 Nm (22 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts to 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Recheck all cylinder head bolts at 61 Nm (45 ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
Tighten all cylinder head bolts (except # 11) to 149 Nm (110 ft. lbs.) torque and tighten bolt # 11 to 135 Nm (100ft. lbs.) torque using the tightening sequence.
NOTE: Clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter a set of bolts which were painted during an earlier servicing operation, replace them.
I'm just wondering about the idea of replacing them with standard SAE8 parts (since I replace head screws whenever the head comes off anyhow, it's not that big a problem. If you find a head screw lying around in the shop, it's probably "pending modification" into some tool or another...)
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