So I would like to know if I can use a harmonic balancer off a 2.5TD on my gas 2.5.

 

If the part number is the same then yes. Otherwise maybe but probly not.

 

Ok thanks just wanted to know cuz I have a dead 2.5 TD out back

 

Should I go with a harmonic balancer repair kit or just get a new one?

 

New one the hb's are only 50 bucks, but if your shaft is buggerd up you will need that repair kit.

 

- For the sake of correctness, it's a "harmonic damper," not a "harmonic balancer." Not all of them have flyweight in them to balance out engine vibrations, but all of them function to dampen engine harmonics so they don't cause parts damage (like snapped crankshafts...)

- I'd be highly inclined to say No. The forces in a Diesel differ vastly from the forces in a gasoline engine - you'll probably damage something just from using it (even if it does fit, which can't be guaranteed. These things are engine-specific for a reason.)

- Replace the front main while you have the HD off - else, it will fail soon, and you'll be trying your best to kick yourself in the head in about two weeks when it does. You're already there, it takes an extra five minutes, and you'll feel better when you do it (and there's no reason not to - it's a cheap part. Drive it in until the shell is flush with the front of the bore in the timing cover. A bit of RTV Black around the edge works wonders for insurance purposes as well.)

- When installing the HD, do not use a hammer or impact tools! The crankshaft screw should be threaded 1/2"-20 - but check. Best to get a section of threaded rod the same thread pitch, a heavy hex nut, and a batch of flat washers. Put the OEM washer on the damper hub proper, back it up with enough flat washers to make sure the nut won't go below the surface of the damper. Thread the rod in, and use the nut/washers as a press to put the damper on (grease the outside of the damper snout and the lip of the seal before you set it in place, and greasing the washers before they go on makes things a bit smoother as well. Paint the bore with never-seez - it makes it easier to remove the HD next time. Trust me, I know.) It should be removed with a crowfoot puller, if the screws used are the same they'll be 5/16"-18 to thread into the hub (and probably come with the kit. If not, get screws & flat washers at your local hardware store, put them in the kit with the puller when you're done.)

If the rubber ring shows signs of "squidging out" (technical term) from between the hub and inertia ring, or the faces of the hub and inertia ring are not flush at the front, replace the thing. A leak at the backside can be caused by a worn seal (replace) or a groove worn into the snout of the HD (sleeve or replace.)

All tips that should help you (I've done this job on too many vehicles too many times to even want to guess anymore...)