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gravity bleeding

Old Apr 8, 2011 | 08:58 AM
  #1  
Coraphix's Avatar
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From: Durango, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: rebuilt straight 6
Default gravity bleeding

ive looked through quite a few threads and im quite amazed i cant find anything on gravity bleeding so im ganna have to ask.

i was working by myself on my jeep replacing the wheel cylinder when my rusty old brake line broke on me. i still need to replace the brake line before i can do anything but i know i will need to bleed my brakes. my problem is i dont know how i can do it by myself without a vacuum or pressure bleeder. i found something about gravity bleeding, i have heard of it before but i was told it was only good for big trucks. does anyone here know if gravity bleeding will work on my 87 cherokee?
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 09:05 AM
  #2  
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From: Visalia, Kalifornia, ussa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Why not just spend $25 on a vacuum bleeder, or find a friend or neighbor to help you for 10 minutes?
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 09:15 AM
  #3  
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From: Tenn. and Mich.
Year: 2004
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L V8
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^x2
Anyway, here's how I always used to do it by myself back in the day.
After replacing/repairing the line, make sure the master cylinder stays full during the procedure. Leave the cap loose on the master cylinder. Crack the bleeder loose on the wheel where the repair was done. When the fluid drips enough to hit the ground, it's time to start doing all the wheels if any others were affected. Start with the furthest from the master cylinder and end with the closest. Right rear, left rear, right front, left front. Following the same procedure: crack the bleeder until brake fluid drips and hits the ground. Keep the master cylinder full. If the pedal is still low you'll need a helper to pump the pedal then hold while you crack the bleeder then retighten. Repeat with all wheels until you have a good firm pedal. Sometimes it's difficult getting all the air out of the system.
This always used to work for me, even when replacing hard lines.

Last edited by ol"blue; Apr 8, 2011 at 09:17 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 09:35 AM
  #4  
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From: Flint/Asheville
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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^ basically what he said. Ive always had better luck opening the pass rear and get it dripping and then open drivers rear, So both rear bleeders are open and then close the pass side and then close drivers side. Do the same for the front.

It is much easier to have a helper tho
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #5  
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From: Durango, CO
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: rebuilt straight 6
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93gc40: i would love to buy a vacuum bleeder if 1- i had $25 to spare, but i had to bum $100 off my dad to pay for parts, i cant afford anymore. and 2- i dont have any sort of air compressor to use a vacuum bleeder. (both are on my list of tools i need though, thank you.) and all my friends and neighbors are at work or school, ive been looking all morning.
ol"blue: thank you this is the type of thing i needed, however i did just get a call back from another jeeper bud of mine who can help me out, thank you anyways.
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 12:30 PM
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From: Oroville, CA
Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
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Fill a clean container about half way with clean brake fluid, put about a two foot piece of 5/16 vacuum hose on the bleeder nipple and the other end in the container of brake fluid, make sure the end of the hose is in the brake fluid. Now crack the bleeder open and pump the pedal slowly about five times, close the bleeder and check the fluid level in the master cylinder and then check and see how the pedal feels. Repeat as needed. Do not let the master run dry and start at the furthest from the master if you're bleeding the whole system, or only do the wheel you made the repair at.
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