Bleeding Brakes -- W/O Bleeders --
#1
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Year: 87
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Bleeding Brakes -- W/O Bleeders --
Anyone know how? Can't use the rear Bleeders they are siezed to the back of the drum. I know someone has the secret i think it is called a gravity bleed or something the that extent. Anyone with the lowdown or knows where a good right up is please let me know.
thanks
thanks
#2
to bleed the brakes you need to be able to turn the bleeder screws.
use a good tight socket to loosen it up. i have never encountered a bleeder screw that i havent been able to remove. if you think you might ruin the screw go get some replacements from the auto parts store before you do.
if it strips get a 12 point socket thats slightly smaller than the screw and lightly tap it on with a hammer. guaranteed to get it off.
use a good tight socket to loosen it up. i have never encountered a bleeder screw that i havent been able to remove. if you think you might ruin the screw go get some replacements from the auto parts store before you do.
if it strips get a 12 point socket thats slightly smaller than the screw and lightly tap it on with a hammer. guaranteed to get it off.
#3
ktm is right they will come out might be a pita but they will come and that is the by far the best approach but there is another less favorable temp solution, you take the caliper off as well the rotor turn the caliper upside down so that the brake line is at the bottom and put the rotor in the caliper and use the brake line as the bleeder this does not works always but i had to do once out on the side of the road to get to the shop.
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Year: 90
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Okay... I'm just gonna put it out there... Just put new wheel cylinders in... If they are that rusted chances are the seals aren't too much better.... If you twist the line off in the process, it probably needed replaced anyway.... Your Jeep lets you now when things need replaced correctly....
But heat from a plumber's torch and PB Blaster have never failed me....
But heat from a plumber's torch and PB Blaster have never failed me....
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Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
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Use a line wrench as well. They are designed to encompass the line or bleeder on more sides and they also are designed to not round it off. If all else fails use a pipe wrench and then replace the bleeders. Any NAPA has them in stock. Take one of your old ones in to the store b/c I think there are two sizes of bleeder screws.
#6
Use a line wrench as well. They are designed to encompass the line or bleeder on more sides and they also are designed to not round it off. If all else fails use a pipe wrench and then replace the bleeders. Any NAPA has them in stock. Take one of your old ones in to the store b/c I think there are two sizes of bleeder screws.
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#8
true, thats always a good idea cause you be assured that auto zone will give you the wrong part
#9
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Year: 87
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Damn well I am a pretty good mechanic This bleeder stripped out with a line wrench. 6-point socket...12 point socket and last and least vise grips. I had purchased speed bleeders to replace the old ones. Whowey I have thought about changing the whole drums out back there but a lil tight on cash to go that far. But I may end up going that route. I have had a problem similiar to this before and ended up having to replace the stuff. But hey it is a new day and has been soaking in blaster all night.
thanks guys
thanks guys
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I ran into a similar problem with my TJ. On the rear, one side wouldn't unscrew because it was seized and it stripped out very easily. The other side wasn't seized to the cylinder but was seized to the brake line itself so when i turned it, it twisted the brake line and snapped. It does happen and they don't always come off right. I hate rust.
I ended up replacing the entire hard line on the rear axle.
I ended up replacing the entire hard line on the rear axle.
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Damn well I am a pretty good mechanic This bleeder stripped out with a line wrench. 6-point socket...12 point socket and last and least vise grips. I had purchased speed bleeders to replace the old ones. Whowey I have thought about changing the whole drums out back there but a lil tight on cash to go that far. But I may end up going that route. I have had a problem similiar to this before and ended up having to replace the stuff. But hey it is a new day and has been soaking in blaster all night.
thanks guys
thanks guys
Not necessarily the entire brake set-up... But at least the entire wheel cylinders. They are around $14 a piece from O'Riellys. One more thing...I always pull the bleeders out of new ones and put never-sieze on them...
#12
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Ask XJ Tess what she wants if this is her Jeep you are fixing.
Blue
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Well I hate to give up on a rebuildable part if I can rebuild it myself, but whowey may just be right. $28 doesn't cover the price of your time and labor but will probably give you some confidence in your brakes and that is worth the outlay of the money at this point.
Ask XJ Tess what she wants if this is her Jeep you are fixing.
Blue
Ask XJ Tess what she wants if this is her Jeep you are fixing.
Blue
I just looked them up for ****s and giggles... His 87 would be $8.49 for a new one....and $5.99 for a rebuild kit. I'm sorry.... Even my cheap butt can't justify saving $5 for both sides..... Once I take everything apart, clean them, hone them, in his case break the bleeders out, etc. I'm WAY over the price of $8.49 a side.
Last edited by whowey; 05-25-2008 at 01:13 PM.
#14
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I just looked them up for ****s and giggles... His 87 would be $8.49 for a new one....and $5.99 for a rebuild kit. I'm sorry.... Even my cheap butt can't justify saving $5 for both sides..... Once I take everything apart, clean them, hone them, in his case break the bleeders out, etc. I'm WAY over the price of $8.49 a side.
That cheap hmmmmm well i may just have to do that then. Havnt been able to work on her heep today been out with the family to the Ohio river and what not. Came home to drop the dogs off as they were pooped. Heading back out to lil creek called sauder springs then maybe tonight if I aint too tired I will get to explore the brake fitting a lil more.