How tough is it to rebuild the oil sending unit? I'm gonna be doing my rear main seal, valve cover seal, and possibly the sending unit this Christmas break. TIA

 

Oil sender is not a rebuildable part its a replaceable part for 18 bucks in autozone

 

hope you dont plan on doing the rear main on your back they suck

 

Nope! It'll be on a lift. I'd rather not pull the engine.

What's the part called that has the oil filter?

 

Before you charge into that rear main you want to make sure hardened O rings on the oil filter mount aren't letting oil blow back and drip off the bell-housing, mimicking a bad rear main. Also make sure that rear CCV on the valve cover is sucking.

/\ Oil filter mount.

 

Thanks!

 

Wish I'd have seen this before I did mine; (adapter)

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/mo...er-renix-1385/

 

"How tough is it to rebuild the oil sending unit?"

If you mean the oil pump, it's very simple.. oil pump rebuild kits are fairly cheap. I did mine on a '93 GC Laredo and the gauge actually showed higher oil pressure. You might not need all the parts in the kit, i.e. there was a piece that required pulling off the sump tube to replace if I recall right.. I didn't do that part. Also, there was an o-ring for where the pump attached to the bottom of the engine.. Mine didn't have one originally, so I didn't use that either. or did I?
2 piece rear main seal? What a piece of cake! After reading all the "how awful it is to change them" articles here & there, I was pretty worried.. Turned out to be the easiest part of the whole job.. Wigglin' the oil pan out (ended up removing the oil pump to get the pan out) lining up the gasket on the pan while trying to re-install the pump with about 3" of space to do it.. blah blah.. Look at me, what am I doin' here writin' a book? Just have fun with it!

 

Hey! You're the first post I've come across that agrees with my Haynes. Says to shift the pan and remove the pump.

 

Do the repairs on all the other oil leaks before doing the RMS. I wouldn't be surprised if the RMS is in fact not leaking as Flintstone suggests.

 

Thanks for the tip. I picked up a cork VC gasket, rear main seal, and a wix filter today. I'll be getting some more parts when my Christmas money comes in

Also, Do I need to get the engine up to temp for the VC bolts to come off? I tried torquing one to 55in-lbs and it snapped right off! But to my surprise I'm not leaking oil and it's NOT empty!

 

What about the oil filter adapter seals?

Valve cover bolts don't care if they're hot or cold, just not over-tightened.

 

Next paycheck! My Christmas vacation doesn't start until next Thursday so no big deal.

 

you probly have to do the front crank seal too, if your looking to fix all the oil leaks

 

very rare that the front seal will leak on these engines