For those who come across this in future searches, I've had good luck using cedar door frame shims available from Home Depot for about three bucks a box. I've used anywhere from two to four of them at a time...

Tap shims in between NSS and tranny applying even pressure on all sides, tap shaft with urethane mallet, tap shims evenly, tap shaft, shims, shaft, shims, shaft. In a pinch, the shims can be left in and worked on the next day without preventing drivability (if they fall out they pose little danger to fellow motorists and are very inexpensive). The soft wood prevents damage to less soft aluminum and plastic housings and the shims can be stacked as the NSS housing moves away from the bell housing. The key to success is applying equal pressure and patience. Obviously, this is all after applying a liberal dose of penetrating oil.

 

What a great idea. A wedge to work it off and a bunch of surface area to distribute the load.

 

Where were you two days ago? lol

 

Home Depot.

 

Just goes between the transmission case and the switch house, down by the shaft.

You can apply more force - with far more control! - using something like that.

If I've been stuck using prying force, I've done it with two bits of flat bar stock, and I'd "wiggle" it back and forth on the shaft until it comes loose.

Either way, you don't want to use too much force - and being able to use a gripping motion instead of pulling gives you more feedback on what's going on and more control with applied force.

 

*slapping forehead and making notes*


That is just awesome.

 

Wow, that's a great idea on the shims . I tried everything to get my nss off- screw driver on retaining nut, pb blaster for two weeks, etc. I just had a quick question, it's a tight fit around the nss, where did you put the shims? I've cut a few shims down and tried to jam them under the switch wherever they would fit. Any suggestions on what worked for you?