ReaperXJ1312

Ugh so new alternator, new battery, new water pump, new thermostat, new head gasket, new valve cover gasket, new distributor gasket, new ignition coil, new plugs and wires, new cap and rotor, new tps, new iac, new throttle body gasket, cleaned throttle body, new cps, cleaned injectors, new fuel filter, new temp sensor, new oil pressure sensor. CEL codes are 12 33 24 (in that order) I’ve looked them up in my book but haven’t figured it out yet.
That’s everything I can remember that I’ve done since getting the jeep, and it hasn’t ran right once. Most recently it has been starting and at first was revving like there was a massive vacuum leak but now it sounds like it’ll try to idle around 120 rpm (no tachometer) if it does idle at all. Can’t rec it up into the right range because as soon as I apply any pressure to the throttle at all it just dies. I’m at a complete loss. Help

Saudade

Well:

12* Battery or computer recently disconnected within the last 50 start cycles). This is a very common code. Will not trigger a "Check engine light".

33*: Air conditioning clutch relay circuit open or shorted. If your Jeep doesn't have AC you will always get this code. Will not trigger a "Check engine light".

24**: Throttle position sensor signal above or below acceptable voltage.

From the FSM:

The throttle position sensor (TPS) can be tested with a digital voltmeter. The center terminal of the TPS is the output terminal (Figs. 39 or 40). With the ignition key in the ON position, back probe the TPS connector. Check the TPS output voltage at the center terminal wire of the connector.

Check this at idle (throttle plate closed) and at wide open throttle (WOT). At idle, TPS output voltage should must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle, TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts. The output voltage should increase gradually as the throttle plate is slowly opened from idle to WOT.


What brand TPS did you buy?

ReaperXJ1312

I honestly can’t remember what brand it was, I’ve ordered so many damn parts and made so many trips to the parts store I’ve lost track, also had a move in the middle of this as well and some receipts haven’t been found yet. I noticed when I unplug the tps it kinda ran ever so slightly better but it’s rapidly becoming a crank no start issue. The last time I was able to get it to start it died as soon as I let off the ignition like the crank sensor was bad.

Unega

If the crank sensor would bad, you wouldn't be starting at all. If it is unplugged it will instantly die due no spark/fuel. I suspect like me, you have a bit of rust in your tank and are clogging your fuel filters up, but maybe an injector or two are acting up.

It does sound to me like a fuel issue though, either too much or too little, but probably too little. Look up Chapter 14 - 48 of the 94 XJ FSM to diagnose non-monitored circuits like the injector malfunctions, exhaust issues, fuel pressure, etc.

lawsoncl

Damn, you really fired the parts cannon at it! Don't assume any of those new electrical parts are good since they're all likely Chinesium grade. Try putting the original IAC and TPS back in and see what happens.

ReaperXJ1312

Original TPS came off in pieces and the original iac makes no change, both iac’s have a good o-ring and make a good seal. Yeah I hate these cheap broketanium alloy parts but wallet is a little starved to be able to afford the Mopar stuff.

Unega

Fuel pressure?

ReaperXJ1312

no clue, don’t have a gauge to hook up and I’m so broke I can’t even afford to pay attention

ReaperXJ1312

1994 XJ 4.0 5 spd

I’m not writing the long *** list of all the crap I’ve replaced since buying it a couple months ago. However, couple weeks ago had been driving home from a friends house when it died and I wasn’t able to get it started for a couple hours then finally got it started and made it home. Ever since getting it home, any time I press the gas pedal it dies. Does not matter if clutch is pushed in or in gear, gas pedal = engine dead. I haven’t found any vacuum leaks, haven’t found any cracks in the lines or anything. I did pull the fuel pump thinking the it needed to be changed but it was pumping fuel no problem. I may not have gotten it seated properly when reinstalling it because I was rushing as it had started raining. However, this had been before the time it died on the way home from friend’s house. I’m so completely confused. It starts and runs for a few seconds sometimes more, runs terribly btw, then sputters out. I’m thinking it’s fuel related but idk what is causing it. HELP PLEASE lol

Unega

You already have a thread for this issue and I was wondering what your fuel pressure is but you said no clue because you cannot afford one. Advance Auto will loan them with a deposit.

I have to replace my fuel filter every other day at the moment because I am too poor to afford a replacement gas tank although soon I will be too poor to afford those lol. But chances are you don't have enough fuel pressure at your rail due to a clogged up fuel filter.

Saudade

What he said. Please don't start dupe threads. Many local AP stores have tool loaner programs.

Jim Malcolm

Unega, where are you at in WV?

Unega

Tiny little town called Gormania, it's right on the Potomac river which is the geographic border of WV and MD. About an hour from Morgantown

Jim Malcolm

Fedex is cheaper than gas. PM your Paypal...

TrailerTrash

Is the check engine light on?