hypedonmonster

i recently did a gauge cluster swap on my 88 4.0 automatic that had the big gas gauge and smaller instruments for my parts jeep's (88 4.0 5speed) cluster that has the small instruments and a big tachometer. before the needle broke off the gas gauge on my old cluster, the gas gauge worked perfectly.... but once i put my new cluster in, the gauge works fine until it gets to a 1/4 tank then it goes up with the rpm's and goes down when i stop. what i think is when i took out my fuel pump, i removed the wire connectors and just soldered the wires straight to the pump. this happened after my old cluster broke and before i put in the new cluster so i couldnt tell if the gauge still read acuratly..... i think that the heat of my soldering iron messed up the gas gauge float sensor. do you guys think this could be the problem? i really need help on this.

Radi

The gas gauge sender is just a variable wirewound resistor. Soldering won't hurt it.
It's far enough away from the connectors that it wouldn't notice the heat.
I'm more suspicious that there is a bad ground somewhere, perhaps related to the cluster and some backfeeding going on.

freegdr

id locate a nother cluster my self

hypedonmonster

Well the problem is that all my junk yards are strapped for Cherokees and all the ones they do have are either older 84's, 98+'s, or base models that have idiot lights and no tach. I know I have an automatic but I have a chemical need to know what my rpm's are at all time 0.o Do you think that there is somway I can beef up the ground or grounds for my cluster or fuel pump or something? I find is strange that it only does this when I have 1/4 tank or less. I can fill up my tank and it's completely accurate up until a 1/4 tank is left then it just goes wacky.

Metmknice

Pull the ICP, and check/clean the connectors on the back.

hypedonmonster

What is the icp? And how would I go about checking or cleaning this? Were is it located and what does it look like?