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fuel pump assembly questions

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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 09:38 AM
  #1  
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Year: 1999 Sport Road Rash Monstaliner
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Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech Engine
Default fuel pump assembly questions

Hello. I'm new to fuel systems so bear with me.

Seems I'm in need of replacing my fuel check valves on my 99 sport due to the fact that it doesn't like to start on the first crank. I figure it would save me time and headache in the future if I simply replace the entire assembly. Basically, I am looking for input on specific parts for price and quality. Below are the parts I was thinking of buying:

fuel pump/strainer:
BOSCH Part # 69316

fuel pressure regulator/filter:
Standard Motor Products Part # PR318

the last thing I need is a sending unit right? Where can I find one of those and how much do they generally run? Is there anything I'm missing? I haven't pulled the old assembly out yet.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 10:05 AM
  #2  
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From: York, PA
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by terzdesign
Hello. I'm new to fuel systems so bear with me.

Seems I'm in need of replacing my fuel check valves on my 99 sport due to the fact that it doesn't like to start on the first crank. I figure it would save me time and headache in the future if I simply replace the entire assembly. Basically, I am looking for input on specific parts for price and quality. Below are the parts I was thinking of buying:

fuel pump/strainer:
BOSCH Part # 69316

fuel pressure regulator/filter:
Standard Motor Products Part # PR318

the last thing I need is a sending unit right? Where can I find one of those and how much do they generally run? Is there anything I'm missing? I haven't pulled the old assembly out yet.
First things first...you can buy the entire assembly as one unit and save yourself a bunch of headaches (and maybe some $). I put a Carter #P75040M in my '98 and have had zero issues with it and it fixed my gauge. Carter or Bosch full assemblies are recommended, and avoid Airtex as if it were herpes.

Have you tried the "poor man's prime"?

-Turn the key to RUN (as if you were about to start. Do you hear the fuel pump run?
-Turn it OFF.
-Turn key to RUN again and listen for the pump. Do that three times, and then try to crank. Does it start up right away? That would determine if a faulty check valve is an issue. That valve is within the fuel pump module.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 10:38 AM
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Seen this yet guys.....http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/g...nstall-395404/
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Huh, that's pretty interesting! Nice cheap fix. If that's the only problem OP is having, this might be a good way to save some coin.

I had a bad sending unit and the starting issue and opted to replace the whole thing.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
Huh, that's pretty interesting! Nice cheap fix. If that's the only problem OP is having, this might be a good way to save some coin.

I had a bad sending unit and the starting issue and opted to replace the whole thing.
Sure beats dropping a tank.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by freegdr
Sure beats dropping a tank.
True, but dropping the tank really isn't that hard. Two 14mm bolts. If they're rusted, get new J-bolts or make them, and cut the old. Took me about half an hour to drop my tank (I got lucky w/ no rusted bolts). I've done them both ways, though.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
First things first...you can buy the entire assembly as one unit and save yourself a bunch of headaches (and maybe some $). I put a Carter #P75040M in my '98 and have had zero issues with it and it fixed my gauge. Carter or Bosch full assemblies are recommended, and avoid Airtex as if it were herpes.

Have you tried the "poor man's prime"?

-Turn the key to RUN (as if you were about to start. Do you hear the fuel pump run?
-Turn it OFF.
-Turn key to RUN again and listen for the pump. Do that three times, and then try to crank. Does it start up right away? That would determine if a faulty check valve is an issue. That valve is within the fuel pump module.
Ha. Yes, have to do poor man's prime everytime I start the vehicle. It (usually) starts right up. Is this the entire assembly then: Carter http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/310638041709?lpid=82

Last edited by terzdesign; Feb 28, 2014 at 03:50 PM.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #8  
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I thought I read one time that the inline check valve should not be used on later model XJs. Does anyone know if that is true, and the reason?
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by terzdesign
Ha. Yes, have to do poor man's prime everytime I start the vehicle. It (usually) starts right up. Is this the entire assembly then: Carter #P75040M
That's the one.

Originally Posted by belvedere
I thought I read one time that the inline check valve should not be used on later model XJs. Does anyone know if that is true, and the reason?
That might be referring to adding the check valve in when the factory one in the module is still functional. I imagine that would be a bad idea, in that case. But as outlined in freegdr's link, that one guy has a 2000 XJ he did the mod with. I guess you'd just want to be absolutely sure that you have a bad valve before adding another in.

I'd still recommend replacing the whole unit.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:21 PM
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Sounds good. I just remember that I'd planned to add the aftermarket check valve on my '98, but then I read that something had changed at some point, and that it should only be used on earlier models. Can't remember the details. Of course, it may have been wrong, too.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:34 PM
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OK, did a quick search. Apparently, people have had problems after adding a check valve on 96+ models. Anyone here have any comments?


http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1012432
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
That's the one.



That might be referring to adding the check valve in when the factory one in the module is still functional. I imagine that would be a bad idea, in that case. But as outlined in freegdr's link, that one guy has a 2000 XJ he did the mod with. I guess you'd just want to be absolutely sure that you have a bad valve before adding another in.

I'd still recommend replacing the whole unit.
Ditto on whole unit ..But install the valve see if it cures the issue . That way theres no dought your on right track.
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by belvedere
OK, did a quick search. Apparently, people have had problems after adding a check valve on 96+ models. Anyone here have any comments?


http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1012432
never mind im blind by full stomach ...
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Old Feb 28, 2014 | 05:13 PM
  #14  
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Whats happening is fuel pressures getting trapped between between the two check valves . Maybe it the fuel pressure regulator causing these issues with no starts ?
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Old Mar 3, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by PocketsEmpty
First things first...you can buy the entire assembly as one unit and save yourself a bunch of headaches (and maybe some $). I put a Carter #P75040M in my '98 and have had zero issues with it and it fixed my gauge. Carter or Bosch full assemblies are recommended, and avoid Airtex as if it were herpes.

Have you tried the "poor man's prime"?

-Turn the key to RUN (as if you were about to start. Do you hear the fuel pump run?
-Turn it OFF.
-Turn key to RUN again and listen for the pump. Do that three times, and then try to crank. Does it start up right away? That would determine if a faulty check valve is an issue. That valve is within the fuel pump module.
Forgot about this. I have the same problem too. Have to do the poor man prime. It's starting to get old.
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