Ye Ol' Cherokee

98 xj sport 150k

Have had a clunk/bang in the front end for a while now. Happens most severly when turning in reverse. It will also happen when turning tightly out of a parking space if going to fast, and also happens when turning over say, a speed bump, but mostly happens the worst when reversing and turning.

I replaced ALL tie rod and tie rod end parts, greased em up, good to go.

Then did the steering stabilizer, then both Axle U-joints, and all Ball joints at the same time.

There is no play anywhere else that i can find, and i cant look under there when it does it because, well, who wants to climb underneath a car when it is moving? No one sane, I'd say.

What in the world could this be? I have no idea at this point - i REALLY thought it was the U-Joints like 100%

salad

Intredasting.

Have you checked the track bar?

Ye Ol' Cherokee

To an extent. I grabbed hold of it and yanked it around and i cant feel play, and when having someone turn the wheel, it seems to stay in place like everything else, but like i said, i havent bee able to see under there when it is actually making the clunk.

UGH!

salad

See if you can jam a pry bar in where the track bar mounts to the axle. Or tighten the bolt for fun, see what happens.

md21722

Maybe an obvious question, but did you turn the steering lock to lock while looking at both ends of the track bar? Mine looked fine thru most of the steering but the frame side would jump at full lock.

Ye Ol' Cherokee

So it turns out it is the track bar. theres actually significant movement, not sure how i missed it before.

any advice or specifics for replacing?

brian0128

Upgrade the track bar. With 150k I would also look at the upper control arm bushings on your axle.

md21722

I would either get a Raybestos or NAPA Chassis track bar, or an aftermarket solution such as from JKS, RE, TNT, etc. I am leery of anything MOOG makes anymore. Track bar did not hold up very long and ball joints lasted a measly 27,000 miles - 1/10 the time the factory Spicers did.

To remove the frame side, remove the nut and cotter pin and beat the ball head with a heavy hammer until it falls out.

The aftermarket ones are a bit tougher and adjustable - pretty much mandatory for any lift kit to keep the axle centered.