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Front drive shaft question

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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 09:22 PM
  #1  
4X4times4's Avatar
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From: Arnold MO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Front drive shaft question

Ok, I honestly did search for this and couldnt find the answer. So here goes. My 2000 Cherokee had a bad driveline vibration, I pulled the front drive shaft to see if that would eliminate the problem and sure enough it worked. So the question is this, how hard is it to replace all of the joints in that drive shaft, and how much lateral movement should the slip shaft have? I know the front U-Joint is easy enough to replace, its the pair at the tcase end that I am worried about.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:15 PM
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
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I've done countless U-joints. Never did one, but what you are describing sounds like a "double cardan" joint. Looks like just more of the same. With the caps pushed out, the center fits out. I find some heat from a regular propane torch (just a bit, on the ears) really helps it go. Changes the game from a real wrestling match to a pushover. A large vice way beats the hammer and socket method. Hate when you think you are done, but the C-clip won't go because you have a needle bearing flat in the end of the cap.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Feb 13, 2012 at 11:20 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:23 PM
  #3  
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From: New Waverly, Tx
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Used engine just put in less than 79kmiles onit jeepersCreepers 60mm TB, '99-'01 intake, BorlaHeader
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You can do it. I did mine with a vice. Takes a little while but it is possible. I took mine apart and re-greased it.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 11:26 PM
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sthon's Avatar
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From: California
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Hate when you think you are done, but the C-clip won't go because you have a needle bearing flat in the end of the cap.
That does suck... I've found it's cheaper just to pull a drive shaft from the JY than it is to replace the u joints at $15 each. Always nice have a spare drive shaft anyway.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 05:49 PM
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4X4times4's Avatar
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From: Arnold MO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Thanks, I was worried about the double joint on the one end. But I thought it pretty much just looked like two ujoints except that they appear to be connected in the centers. I am hoping that they just come apart like a regular ujoint.
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 06:28 PM
  #6  
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If you've never done a u joint replacement then you might not want to tacle the double cardan ujoint. It can turn into a nightmare real fast. Make sure it's bad before you start taking it apart. There are some threads about how to rebuild them (It's a little more than just two ujoints). The last one I took apart never went back together
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Old Feb 14, 2012 | 07:04 PM
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Rent a ball joint puller from auto zone. If you have an impact, you can have all the u joints replaced in 10 minutes
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Old Feb 15, 2012 | 06:42 AM
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theyre not that hard at all. they beat out and beat in just like a normal u joint. theres just two of them. theres also a ball kind of like a heim joint in the center if thats worn you can buy it and replace it.
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Old May 12, 2012 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 99redgtp
theyre not that hard at all. they beat out and beat in just like a normal u joint. theres just two of them. theres also a ball kind of like a heim joint in the center if thats worn you can buy it and replace it.
Where can I buy the center hein part at? I just took mine out today to change ujoints and found the center is wore worse than the ujoints.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 06:45 AM
  #10  
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From: Apollo, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I have been searching for part numbers for the u joints in the front drive shaft. I also have a vibration up front. Removed the front drive shaft and its gone. I was on rock auto and I can find two different u joints. One for the front u joint(where it attaches to the front axle), and one of the two up near the transfer case. Are all 3 the same? I dont want to buy u joints and end up being wrong. Any help would be great. And I plan on buying precision u joints. Thats what I bought for the rear drive shaft and I am happy with them. Thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 09:12 AM
  #11  
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From: Las Vegas
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
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http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/driv...iveshaft-5.htm
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 11:05 AM
  #12  
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
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On my 90 I'm pretty sure the drive shafts use the same front and rear.

I don't have one but it looks that the joints in the double cardigan CV joint are different. Enlightening link botta bing! Nice photos of the double cardigan.
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Old Jun 30, 2012 | 03:34 PM
  #13  
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From: Apollo, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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Thanks guys. Found out what I needed. Wasn't very hard. I ended up finding the jeep manual and checking out what it said in there. Just ordered 3 precision u joints off of rock auto. $41 shipped. When I bought the two for the rear I went to Napa and got them. But for $50. Glad rock auto was pretty cheap. Thanks again. Love this forum.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #14  
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Right on. Just a note. Cold they can be pretty stubborn. You heat those ears, just boiling hot, and they will go one heck of a lot easier. (I've also put the "other/usually inner", piece in the freezer first)(of "whatever")

Last edited by DFlintstone; Jul 2, 2012 at 04:07 PM.
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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 06:17 PM
  #15  
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From: Apollo, PA
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Haha. Sweet. I get what your saying. I have read about the freezer thing before. May have to try it. Thanks a ton.
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