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Front Diff acts "Diff-erent" after Axleshaft replacement...

Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:03 PM
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Default Front Diff acts "Diff-erent" after Axleshaft replacement...

98 cherokee. Dana 30. Front end.
I recently replaced my hubs, and my axleshafts with CVshafts. All went well. Came apart and went together easy as pie. Didn't even need a pumpkin spreader.
My issue... it seems to be dragging and working real hard. I just got it back together and think it may just need a little work-in time, but is this normal? It pulls a little right when in 4 wheel drive. It also doesnt like kicking back out of 4wheel unless i go drive, reverse, drive. It did t do that before. It still drives straight as an arrow in regular gear.
It's also now whining a bit. Not crazy, but a little.

Again... normal? Let it break in? Didn't have any issues with the reinstall except getting rid of my brake rock guards, as they pretty much disintegrated when taking them off due to rust. There were no shims just the gears inside. And the gear side bearings were nice and new looking. I changed both of the Axleshaft interior seals. The driver side one was leaking, causing get all this in the first place. Now no leaks. I used royal purple fluid in it.

Normal? Let it wear for a bit? Any advice or stories appreciated. Thanks!
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:20 PM
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Did you photo-document your work?

Pics?
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:24 PM
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Unfortunately no. It all went back together smoothly. The seals seemed seated. The fluids not leaking. There were no extra parts. Gears came out and went in smoothly. Same bolts same holes. Brackets on the gear side bearings oriented the same way on the same sides.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:26 PM
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I didn't measure any lashing, although there were no shims to begin with...
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by BillyBoy
although there were no shims to begin with...
You sure there aren't some "extra" parts laying around somewhere? It's just weird that it would bind up now and not before if everything went smoothly.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:41 AM
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Is this a "let it break-in" thing or are you waiting for it to actually get worse so you can identify the problem easier? The thing with a diff is.... they can grenade pretty easy if something isn't right. I'd definitely start checking into it!
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ
Is this a "let it break-in" thing or are you waiting for it to actually get worse so you can identify the problem easier? The thing with a diff is.... they can grenade pretty easy if something isn't right. I'd definitely start checking into it!

Thanks for the advice. This is my cherry on working with the front diff except for the standard fluid changes.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:38 PM
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So here's the million dollar question...( I've been researching and thinking about this all day at work...)

What type of fluid do you use in the Dana 30? The F-t4rds at auto zone told me 75w140. It looks real nice going in... now it's gonna such to have to change it out.

Second question... is the damage permanent? The gears now drag in 4 wheel drive. If I change it will it possibly get back to normal?
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 08:54 PM
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I really doubt it's the fluid. You should dig in to it and find the issue before it goes bye bye.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:24 AM
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What should I look for when the caps off? Other than bad fluid? Seems like you can't see much unless you pull both axleshafts and the guts.
And thanks again for the input!
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:25 AM
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Is it possibly the seal not being seated? Seems like it wouldn't effect it that way.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:55 AM
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check the torque on the caps. did you use a torque wrench or just bolt back in.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 11:54 AM
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Honestly, you need some measurements. I'd check your contact pattern as well. Did you remove the pinion? IIRC the dana 30 uses a crush sleeve? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'll wait on a response to that before I get into anymore details about crush sleeves.

Check and make sure your teeth are making a good pattern. If it's too deep, you'll essentially be forcing the gears to mesh which would cause premature damage and make the diff work hard. If the pinion is too tight than that, again, would cause it to work hard to turn. Sucks having to tear it all apart again but that's the fun diff game we get to play.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ
Honestly, you need some measurements. I'd check your contact pattern as well. Did you remove the pinion? IIRC the dana 30 uses a crush sleeve? Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I'll wait on a response to that before I get into anymore details about crush sleeves.

Check and make sure your teeth are making a good pattern. If it's too deep, you'll essentially be forcing the gears to mesh which would cause premature damage and make the diff work hard. If the pinion is too tight than that, again, would cause it to work hard to turn. Sucks having to tear it all apart again but that's the fun diff game we get to play.
No crush sleeves in any stock Dana 30. All use shims. If all you did was remove the carrier and axleshafts your gear pattern is the same as it was before.
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 02:08 PM
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I used a torque wrench. I think it was 35 lbs? Hard to remember but I looked it up. The 2 side bearings were smooth. One of my friends said I should've changed them both anyway. When I reopen it I probably will. Today the drag from the front axle won't let the Jeep move. If I give it gas it drives in 4. If I take my foot off the gas, it slows the Jeep to a stop. When back in 2 wheel drive, drives just fine. No issues at all.
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