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Front Axle Housing Repair/Replace

Old Jan 26, 2019 | 09:35 AM
  #31  
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The suspension on my '96 I'm guessing is where you want to go (installed in Oct. of 2017). The rear has Crown 4886186AA springs. They've not settled any as of yet. The front has
Moog CC782 springs with 3/4" spacers. Almost positive I didn't use the isolators. Jeep's not here so I can't check. I'd also take front
and rear measurements for you if it was. As it sits now it's level. If I had it to do over I'd have went with Rusty's 2" coils and new isolators but I thought it may have sat higher in the front.

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Old Jan 26, 2019 | 05:37 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
TThe front has Moog CC782 springs with 3/4" spacers.
Thanks Earl. It sounds like spacers might be the way to go. I'd be interested to hear what your measurements are.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/1...UaAm8mEALw_wcB
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Old Jan 27, 2019 | 12:37 PM
  #33  
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No problem. I'll get you measurements when I get the Jeep back. It's getting a few quarter size rust holes in the body underneath welded up. HOPING for next week.

Those are the spacers I'm using. Have you thought about bump stops a possibly longer shocks?
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Old Jan 27, 2019 | 01:01 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Have you thought about bump stops a possibly longer shocks?
Thanks Earl. I already installed new stock bump stops and KYB shocks, so I guess I can't go too crazy with the lift, but I'm really liking the spacer idea, it should put me exactly where I want to be!
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 03:40 PM
  #35  
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KYB's are GOOD shocks. Been using them since the early 80's.

So I found the note with the lift spec but figured I'd wait and take some measurements. Both the note and the measurements I took today are the same. 19 1/2" front and 19" back. Both back measurements were with the cargo area is completely empty.
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Old Jan 29, 2019 | 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
KYB's are GOOD shocks. Been using them since the early 80's.

So I found the note with the lift spec but figured I'd wait and take some measurements. Both the note and the measurements I took today are the same. 19 1/2" front and 19" back. Both back measurements were with the cargo area is completely empty.
Great Earl, thanks very much!
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 06:15 AM
  #37  
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New boings!!!

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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 07:12 AM
  #38  
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Started new thread

Last edited by Dave51; Feb 28, 2019 at 07:31 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2019 | 07:24 AM
  #39  
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This might fare better as a new thread...
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 05:15 AM
  #40  
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On a gorgeous spring (give or take) day in New England, slapped the CC782s with 3/4" spacers in. Front is 20", rear is 19 1/2". Anticipating a little bit of settling in the front, so this looks to be the perfect match.



Note that 782s will not fit the stock isolators (unless you carve 'em up).
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 10:21 AM
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Looks nice!
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Old Mar 12, 2019 | 11:22 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by PatHenry
Looks nice!
Thanks Pat!

I guess next up for us comes power-washing the slurry off the bottom before it eats through to the steering wheel!
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Old May 4, 2022 | 12:41 PM
  #43  
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Default Same Rusted Out Bracket Problem

Hey Dave51 - I hope your build is still up and running smooth. I have this thread's identical issue on my Dana 30. I bought the Artec replacements and been grinding off the rusted out pieces.

I took note of the side spacing / placement and the proper angle to the differential. As you wrote - no instructions in the kit - just bare, heavy metal. Any additional info you received or lessons learned about assembly would be much appreciated !
Did you mostly/entirely preassemble/weld then weld on the axle OR weld the biggest piece on the axle first and go piece by piece from there, for example ? I'm doing both sides so I could try both approaches but would really like to get off on a good foot.

Cheers from a CT Native
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Old May 4, 2022 | 01:28 PM
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Some stuff I got from Nate at Artec:




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Old May 4, 2022 | 02:00 PM
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I made this as an assembly



and then welded them on first to make sure they were properly positioned. I put the torsion bar, stabilizer and track bar brackets on after, I don't think you can get them properly positioned otherwise (i.e. what would look centered on the bench might end up way off of the axle, and the mating surfaces may not match up properly). Also it's a little weird how how have to put the nut on the track bar bolt-- you'll see what I mean.
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