Freeze Plug Question
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L Inline Six
Freeze Plug Question
I've got a leak from one of my freeze plug, i intend on fixing it and can get the parts EXCEPT either a seal driver or a socket. I have no idea what i need for a 50.92 mm freeze plug. I'm lost at this point and any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
#2
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Just use the biggest socket you can fit inside the cup - even if you have to buy it. 50.92m/m ~= 2" (just a shade over,) so find a socket with an OD of 2" - or not quite, but certainly not over! (50.92m/m ~= 2.004")
Use the socket in the cup to start the thing, and then use a flat steel bar to drive it in until it is flush. Use the bar across the cup, so that it will stop against the boss on the side of the engine.
But, you're going to need to be able to drive the plug from inside the cup if you want it to go in straight - which means either a socket or you have a driving mandrel made (or you find one.)
Use the socket in the cup to start the thing, and then use a flat steel bar to drive it in until it is flush. Use the bar across the cup, so that it will stop against the boss on the side of the engine.
But, you're going to need to be able to drive the plug from inside the cup if you want it to go in straight - which means either a socket or you have a driving mandrel made (or you find one.)
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On the other hand, you have more fingers! (Sowwies, I couldn't resist...) OTOH, I've been using RTV to seal welch plugs for the last thirty years without incident. I don't suggest something if I don't know it works - all of the tips and tricks I pass along are the results of experience (and "experience is what you get when you don't get what you want." By that definition, I've got loads of experience!)
#7
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Year: 1988
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But, I figure even LocTite #545 Hydraulic Sealer would be better than nil - as long as it's a sealer!
I'm just surprised about the GE Silicone II (I see it at hardware stores) - it's good for household apps, but I honestly didn't think it would hold up underhood. How long have you been using it, and on what (specifically?)
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#8
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Year: 1996 two-door SE
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I concur with 5-90. Use Permatex RTV sealant on the edge. Buy it where you buy the "freeze" plug. You may also be able to borrow or rent a specific driver from the same place.
#9
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Forgot to mention - if you have the choice between CRES or brass plugs, go with brass. They'll last longer.
(CRES = Corrosion RESistant steel alloy - "Stainless Steel." "Stainless" or "Stainless Steel" is a copyrighted term - diluted in the same manner as "Vaseline" or "Kleenex," but still copyrighted. And, I believe, the copyright is actually still in force...)
Brass also seals better - being both softer and springier than CRES, it will have a greater capacity for elastic deformation (going into the bore) and expansion (to seal against the bore walls.)
(CRES = Corrosion RESistant steel alloy - "Stainless Steel." "Stainless" or "Stainless Steel" is a copyrighted term - diluted in the same manner as "Vaseline" or "Kleenex," but still copyrighted. And, I believe, the copyright is actually still in force...)
Brass also seals better - being both softer and springier than CRES, it will have a greater capacity for elastic deformation (going into the bore) and expansion (to seal against the bore walls.)
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
ya i have a small leak from one of my freeze plugs also, which sucks cause they are brass plugs AND i used RTV so i dunno....
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