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Old May 2, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Daniel_Sach
Free is good. Also as far as that mounting style goes I think that is more for prerunner setups. I saw that on a different forum. IDK.... Free is always good. As far as those mounts go. I don't think that they could be to bad. they are very simple. Almost to simple really. Depending on the price you could probably build them for next to nothing. Looks like a decent mod though.
Yea I could easily make them myself if I could see one in person. They are slightly angled for some reason but it keeps the shock straight and I would have to know that angle so I could do it right.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 10:19 PM
  #17  
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No one done this yet? Man I need to know which shocks to get if I do it. Painted them all black today I hate the all white shocks and I'm getting black boots.
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Old May 2, 2009 | 10:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by bigbadxj
OK one more question has anyone used these front shock brackets yet? Here is are the details and a pick.


Many shock manufacturers simply do not build a stud-style shock in long enough lengths to accommodate high travel after-market lift kits; however, they do in the more popular EB1 mount style. These "Shock Conversions" are a simple bolt on item that will allow you to use any EB1 shock. They reduce the static ride height of the shock by 1.10 inches which translates into 1.10 inches more droop for your suspension.

If so which shocks do you use with them? I Think they are a good idea and would save on shocks and easier to replace them.Also has anyone dealt with Mako off road products before?

I am going to go that way when I do my lift because then I can use the same size shocks on the front and rear and carry a spare JUST in case on the trails
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Old May 2, 2009 | 10:58 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by bigbadxj
Well yea if you mount them regular but he was saying to mount them up in the cab like in that pic to get more up travel. Well I wanted to know why I would want more up travel? I as of now have no need to mount them like that cause I do not even know why I would want up travel!?!?!
By having more up travel you can get the same articulation out of less lift. When you are running 6+ inches of lift and want more flex you either lift higher or do things like that
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Old May 3, 2009 | 01:35 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by 89Cherokee
By having more up travel you can get the same articulation out of less lift. When you are running 6+ inches of lift and want more flex you either lift higher or do things like that
Ok I have never seen it before, so i'll take your word on it.
I am going to go that way when I do my lift because then I can use the same size shocks on the front and rear and carry a spare JUST in case on the trails
So you think the same shocks that work in the rear would work in the front with those brackets?
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Old May 4, 2009 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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OK I found a guy that has installed and used the Conversion brackets but he is using bilstien 5150 also. But he has the set up just like what I want but I'm going to use the Pro Comp ES 9000's in the front since I got some for the rear. Here is a pic of his set up.

I understand uptravel now also! For other r-tards like me it is what you need when your wheels is tucked up in the fender and the other is using the travel.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #22  
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I need shock bushings for these shocks I can't find them anywhere, they have 2" eyes. If someone has some extra or knows a good link that would be great.
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Old May 11, 2009 | 09:46 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by bigbadxj
Ok I understand that longer shocks mean more drop, Right. Now what are the uses of high Up travel? Like what kind of terrain or use?
you must only be watching one side of your vehicle flex? the side the drops... if one side goes down... the other side goes up... if your on a huge rock that side needs to go as far up as possible while the other side needs to go down as far as possible... if your 4 or 5 inches away from hitting your fender then your pretty much wasting flex... and your rig could be sitting more level... which is what your going for anyway... flex it... dont flip it... and ive never even been rock crawling... im in GA... we dont even have rocks unless someone buys one... lol
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Old May 12, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by huntingman2706217
you must only be watching one side of your vehicle flex? the side the drops... if one side goes down... the other side goes up... if your on a huge rock that side needs to go as far up as possible while the other side needs to go down as far as possible... if your 4 or 5 inches away from hitting your fender then your pretty much wasting flex... and your rig could be sitting more level... which is what your going for anyway... flex it... dont flip it... and ive never even been rock crawling... im in GA... we dont even have rocks unless someone buys one... lol
Yea I figured out a couple posts up I wrote
Originally Posted by bigbadxj
I understand uptravel now also! For other r-tards like me it is what you need when your wheels is tucked up in the fender and the other is using the travel.
I just need to find some bushings would pro comp have them?
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Old May 12, 2009 | 02:05 PM
  #25  
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I have a set of four new black boots if you want them for cheap. Rough Country (I got blue ones and the black came with the lift kit).

$20 shipped for all four, hit me up with a PM if interested.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 02:26 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bigbadxj
Yea I could easily make them myself if I could see one in person. They are slightly angled for some reason but it keeps the shock straight and I would have to know that angle so I could do it right.
i have that same setup on mine, there not bent or angled their straight
its just the pic. if you use the upper and lower mount with these
you lose 1.5 of shock travel in front , in the back upper mount is .5 of loss. if you know what i mean.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 06:21 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by mark's91-XJ
i have that same setup on mine, there not bent or angled their straight
its just the pic. if you use the upper and lower mount with these
you lose 1.5 of shock travel in front , in the back upper mount is .5 of loss. if you know what i mean.
I was going to take a spare set of rear sway bar brackets(the ones every body uses for the rear bar pin replacement) and drilling a hole in the middle and then tack welding in a bolt so I don't have to spend 30-40 bucks you know.
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Old May 12, 2009 | 07:13 PM
  #28  
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I found some bushings thanks!
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Old May 12, 2009 | 08:28 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 93XJLI
cut a hole in the floor and run em straight up.



those shocks are crappy but theyll work.


dude i love how you have a roll of duct tape in the back left.. my roll is in the center console of my 93 and gets used as a cupholder everyday. NOTE TO EARLY 90'S JEEPERS: roll of duct tape perfectly fits large dunkin donuts iced coffee cup
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