floor project
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
floor project
if ya read the introductions ya'll know I bought a 1996 Cherokee sport for my son body is almost perfect, just a couple of small dings no rust, but the floors are shot, so I thought I'd post a thread showing the repairs. had to travel about an hour to get it, made it about 15 miles and hit a pot hole and you couldn't hang on to the steering wheel, I thought the wheels were coming off? it straightened out and never did it again, even hit speeds of 70mph and no problems?(even with the neighbors driving which scares me he even floored it a few times...it's got 196k who knows what might fly off..lol)
anyway I searched the net and the cheapest place to find the parts was
http://c2cfabrication.com/store/adva..._description=1
let ya know how the parts are when they get here, I'll get some photo's of the jeep and the floor this morning, got the interior pulled, but put the seats in so we can still move it around and go up in the woods to let my son drive it plus it's almost flintlock season and the old Grand Cherokee (240k) we use for a woods/plow wagon is broke down fuel pressure tanks to less than 10 psi when ya give it gas, filter or pump I think. ok long enough post. later on dt
anyway I searched the net and the cheapest place to find the parts was
http://c2cfabrication.com/store/adva..._description=1
let ya know how the parts are when they get here, I'll get some photo's of the jeep and the floor this morning, got the interior pulled, but put the seats in so we can still move it around and go up in the woods to let my son drive it plus it's almost flintlock season and the old Grand Cherokee (240k) we use for a woods/plow wagon is broke down fuel pressure tanks to less than 10 psi when ya give it gas, filter or pump I think. ok long enough post. later on dt
#2
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Year: 1999 Limited
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
that's a great price, RayBuck has the front/driver-side listed for $65. but no mention of altering for transmission hump (97-01). I need to do mine, can anyone advise if said alterations are required on my '99?
http://raybuck.com/i-88824-1984-01-j...iver-side.html
http://raybuck.com/i-88824-1984-01-j...iver-side.html
Last edited by roadraje; 12-23-2013 at 06:48 AM.
#3
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
that's a great price, RayBuck has the front/driver-side listed for $65. but no mention of altering for transmission hump (97-01). I need to do mine, can anyone advise if said alterations are required on my '99?
http://raybuck.com/i-88824-1984-01-j...iver-side.html
http://raybuck.com/i-88824-1984-01-j...iver-side.html
Also DT, unrelated to the main point of your thread but it sounds like you got the classic death wobble. Search around for that (use google - not CherokeeForum search, it doesn't work)
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Year: 1999 Limited
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
For the size of the hole I need to repair I don't believe any alterations are necessary but I want to install the entire new pan because the rust-monster starting chewing on my seat reinforcement mount and I broke off one the front bolts when I was taking the seat out. For the price I might as well replace that while I am at it. Side by side they look very similar but the RayBuck does appear to have more detailed cuts (especially on the right side). Any opinions, suggestions, comments?
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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hi-jack away. as long as ya get the info ya need. so here's the pic's. sorry garage light is bad and I wasn't taking it off the jack stands and re-tightening all the wheels. the boy is taking the aluminum wheels with great all terrain truck tires off the plow jeep and putting them on his jeep. we did take it out in the mud to try out the 4x4
Last edited by dt1050; 12-23-2013 at 09:46 AM.
#7
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Year: 1996
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#8
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Year: 1996
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#9
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Year: 1996
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Thanks for the reply's. pocketsempty, thanks for the info on the death wobble, I looked at the front end and the tie rods are bad, so is the tie rod that goes at the pitman arm at least it looks like sombody already replaced the lower ball joints the stablizer bar looks like crap, probly original. I'm hoping to have under $1500 total in it when it's all said and done, so far so good even with the tie rods a new sperpantine belt fluid changes, floor pans and purchase price (including tags, taxes transfer, etc.) I'm at about $1200 not to bad. but does any project really ever come in at or below budget?
on a side note, the jeep budget is getting better, I found almost $4.00 in change through out the jeep...lol
on a side note, the jeep budget is getting better, I found almost $4.00 in change through out the jeep...lol
#10
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Year: 1999 Limited
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I6 Power Tech
Thanks DT, I've been trying to post pics of my "situation" but internet here sucks. I'll keep trying, look forward to seeing your progress
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Thanks for the reply's. pocketsempty, thanks for the info on the death wobble, I looked at the front end and the tie rods are bad, so is the tie rod that goes at the pitman arm at least it looks like sombody already replaced the lower ball joints the stablizer bar looks like crap, probly original. I'm hoping to have under $1500 total in it when it's all said and done, so far so good even with the tie rods a new sperpantine belt fluid changes, floor pans and purchase price (including tags, taxes transfer, etc.) I'm at about $1200 not to bad. but does any project really ever come in at or below budget?
on a side note, the jeep budget is getting better, I found almost $4.00 in change through out the jeep...lol
on a side note, the jeep budget is getting better, I found almost $4.00 in change through out the jeep...lol
#12
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Year: 1996
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The part that goes to the pitman arm is what's called the drag link (or "center link"). Part #DS1238. Also, if you're replacing it all, look into the ZJ tie rod upgrade. Well worth it. But, might not matter much if the jeep isn't going to be abused offroad or anything.
Last edited by dt1050; 12-24-2013 at 09:29 AM.
#13
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Year: 1996
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#15
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ok, got the parts late Friday and got the pic's, but didn't waste any time Saturday tearing into the jeep, the floor wasn't to bad to get out (the seat mounts absolutely ........) I put the replacement panel in and used a sharpy to mark it, took the panel out and marked about 1 inch below it and used a cut off wheel to cut out the old floor (making sure there wasn't vital under where I was cutting). once the old floor was out of the way I just used a grinder to remove the rest of the floor that was spot welded to the uni body inner rocker panel and fire wall. I put the panel in and crawled under the jeep and marked were the uni body was, then drilled holes about every 2 inches so I could spot weld the panel to the uni body, I got a bit carried away and didn't take pics along the way, I'll try to take more pic's with the next few panels. here are some pic's of the panels I got from classic 2 current with the dimensions wrote on them.
19" wide at the top 30" long and 16.5" wide at bottom
18.5 wide at front
19" wide at the top 30" long and 16.5" wide at bottom
18.5 wide at front