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Fixing my floors. Need some help

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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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mud_digger's Avatar
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From: central michigan
Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0
Default Fixing my floors. Need some help

The floors in my 96 classic are pretty much gone. the front has one hole and is rusted and the hatch area is pretty much all gone and some rust in back seat. i am going to remove all the interior and carpet and put new sheet metal in. do i need to cut out the old metal? im gonna use self tapping screws, rivets, and roofing tar to seal it all off and bedline them. i just need to know how to go about the whole thing
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 06:56 PM
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Check this thread:>-> https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/nee...oorpans-22474/
Dan
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 07:04 PM
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not much help. I need to really know if i need to remove/cut out the old metal or if i can just use self tapping screws and rivets and do it.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 07:08 PM
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yeah, you need to remove as much rusted metal as you can. if you dont, it will continue to spread. once you get all the crap cut out and the new metal in place, you need to make sure there is no bare metal showing. seal it up top and bottom or it will come right back.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by mud_digger
not much help. I need to really know if i need to remove/cut out the old metal or if i can just use self tapping screws and rivets and do it.
If you're not replacing the complete panel and are just making a patch panel, you need to remove all the old rusty metal. There is a product that you can treat it with if removing it all isn't possible, but I haven't used it. I forget the name, but someone will chime in I'm sure.
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 07:18 PM
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the product is called rust converter and can be purchased at any auto parts store and at wal-mart
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Old Mar 4, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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does this rust converter even work?
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 08:14 AM
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My experience (lets just say I am an old dude, playing with/around cars for close to 50 years), is that rust converters are temporary measures, at best. They may provide some protection for a couple of years.
OTOH, I have used POR-15, and while I won't say its permanent, its pretty close. It is pricey--check the internet for a supplier, or pick it up from a auto flea market ( Spring Carlisle is only a few weeks away), but it works.

Oh, FOLLOW DIRECTIONS--
specifically--wear gloves!, and put a piece of plastic bewteen the lid and the can, or you will not get the lid off, and you'll end up punching a hole in the can to use the rest.

For small holes you can brush the stuff over some F/G cloth and it will seal--it even works for fuel tank repairs.
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Old Mar 5, 2010 | 06:27 PM
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Im having the same problem with my 96. The passenger side floor board is pretty much gone, still there but really soft. The floor board under the back seat, The outer part of the floor towards the rocker and some back in the cargo area is all rusted. Thankfully i know a good welder and he said that once it get warm out he will get me fixed up. I guess that is a very common spot for XJ's to rust? My driver side is fine though. But i have used that rust converter and it works pretty good. Can pick it up at about any auto parts store.
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