The "extension trick" when pulling the front bearing hub
#1
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0
The "extension trick" when pulling the front bearing hub
I need to change the front bearing / hub on my '96 Cherokee and am curious about what a forum member posted regarding the "extension trick":
"once you have the 3 bolts out that hold the hub to the knuckle, slide a 3/8" drive ratchet extension in the hole. It will fit through the knuckle, but will stop on the hub. Turn the steering wheel and push it out..."
I'm wondering what "hole" they're referring to. Do I slide it into one of the 3 bolt holes, or is there some other opening? I watched a guy do the same thing on a You Tube video, but the camera was too far back to show exactly where he was putting that 3" long 3/8 extension.
Also, is it a good idea to change both sides right away, even though only one hub is shot?
The reason I'm posting here instead of contacting the member via PM is that I see he hasn't been active here since last December.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jeff
"once you have the 3 bolts out that hold the hub to the knuckle, slide a 3/8" drive ratchet extension in the hole. It will fit through the knuckle, but will stop on the hub. Turn the steering wheel and push it out..."
I'm wondering what "hole" they're referring to. Do I slide it into one of the 3 bolt holes, or is there some other opening? I watched a guy do the same thing on a You Tube video, but the camera was too far back to show exactly where he was putting that 3" long 3/8 extension.
Also, is it a good idea to change both sides right away, even though only one hub is shot?
The reason I'm posting here instead of contacting the member via PM is that I see he hasn't been active here since last December.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Jeff
#3
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Year: 90,84
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I haven't done mine yet, but yes ...I need to choose my words carefully, (long story!) . "You use the 3/8 ratchet driver extension in the hole where the hub mount bolt was that is nearest the back wheel" Whew! Cruiser, GeeODee, Better?
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Thanks! I knew I could use (rent) a puller, but this method looked so darn easy in the video that I wanted to try it first. I guess I'll find out what happens when I do!
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Year: 1996
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Oh...one more thing. I seem to read a lot about the TIMKIN bearings/hub assemblies. I think I already know the answer here, but is it wise to just spend the extra $ for them or has anyone had good luck with less expensive brands?
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I bought Timken direct from Timken (being a distributor for their industrial side). My coworker bought Precision from O'Reilly and they have the exact same seal on it, and my seal turns with the hub instead of being stationary like his. So time will tell as which is a better buy.
And use the puller to remove the hub. Makes it so much easier.
Federal Mogul (BCA Bearing) is made in Korea and is OEM part but they have an insane lead time of 8 weeks! And they are twice as much as Timken.
And use the puller to remove the hub. Makes it so much easier.
Federal Mogul (BCA Bearing) is made in Korea and is OEM part but they have an insane lead time of 8 weeks! And they are twice as much as Timken.
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Great let us know. I guess I DID do one once since I have an old hub in my barn. Must have been 10 years ago. Anyway if you find it's stubborn, a sharp blow while pushing-torqueing can help un-sisze things that are stuck, even on the front or the side. (it's the shock wave passing through) Also heating the outside (of anything, a nut, a brake drum, u-joint ear), can make an AMAZING difference. Something that seemed imposable might come right off.
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#9
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I used a 4" extension through the hole you took the bolt out of and started the Jeep and turned the wheel..loud POP and it was loose. Made it easy enough that even I could do it..LOL
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