I have an AW4 2WD. Was leaking oil pretty bad from the rear seal. I replaced the bushing and the seal but it still leaks. Any ideas? It leaked immediately, so it wasn't from unusual wear.

1. Should the seal be flush with the outer lip of its bore in the tail housing, or pushed all the back until it bottoms out? Wondering if this is an installation error. I have it flush so there is a gap between the seal and the bushing, which I figured was for oil to return. I thought all the other seals I pulled were installed the same way.
2. I lined up the oil hole with the feed like hole in the housing so that should be good.
3. The slip yoke has no play anymore when installed. Do they have a minimum spec for wear?

 

This is from the 99 FSM. There were no pictures of the seal orientation.
I do remember seeing posts about the 4x4 extension housing seals leaking
and CCKen recommended using a Mopar seal since others often would still leak.
If you do get one from a dealer, you can ask them an installation question.

EXTENSION HOUSING SEAL
REMOVAL
(1) Raise and support vehicle.
(2) Remove propeller shaft. Refer to Group 3, Differential
and Driveline, for proper procedures.
(3) Using a suitable seal puller or screw with a
slide hammer, remove the extension housing seal
(Fig. 12).
INSTALLATION
(1) Clean seal bore of extension housing of any
residual sealer material from original seal.
(2) Using Tool Handle C-4171 and Seal Installer
8212, install new extension housing seal so that the
seal is located plus or minus 0.5 mm (plus or minus 0.02 in.) to the face
of the extension housing (Fig. 13).
(3) Install propeller shaft. Refer to Group 3, Differential
and Driveline, for proper procedures.
(4) Check and add fluid to transmission as necessary.
Refer to the Recommended Lubricant section for
proper fluid requirements.
(5) Lower vehicle.

 

I ordered a Mopar seal to replace the leaking one. After comparison, the seals are actually the exact same manufacturer. I was worried then that a replacement wouldn't solve the problem. I examined the currently installed seal after removing the drive shaft and noticed the seal spring was dislodged. Maybe I damaged it on installation or it was bad when I got it, not sure. Removed old and replaced it with a new seal. The new seal came with some silicon grease preinstalled in the lip. Installed and doesn't leak.

 

Can you do one on removing bushing? I can't find new gasket that goes behind housing, so I am afraid to take it off. Any suggestions?

 

Make a gasket from gasket paper. It comes in sheets and rolls. If your nearest parts store doesn't have any you could order some on the internet or take a box of donuts to your nearest independent auto shop.

 

My housing had no gasket. I used red gasket sealer that comes in those tubes. Apply gasket, install housing with bolts finger tight, wait an hour, then torque to spec. Be sure the bead is consistent and has no breaks. Mine never leaked. I just lost that Jeep. Rear ended in South Los Angeles and insurance totaled it.

 

Ditto on using silicon. Just don't go hog wild with a huge bead that squishes and sheds inside the xfer case.

 

Thanks all. I'll try the sealer. Anything else I should know about before taking housing off? Can anybody link me to the torque specs?

 

FSM says 20-25 ft*lbs on the extension housing to case bolts. It also says 1/8" bead of silicon instead of a gasket.

 

Just an old backyard mechanic's trick for an emergency gasket when you need one. Cut one out of a brown paper grocery bag and rub RTV silicone into it so that it soaks the paper. Wipe off the excess and let it cure. I've used these on water pumps and they don't leak.

 

For a thicker gasket use a cereal box. Permatex #2 green, non hardening works good too. Don't use #1 brown, hardening, unless you want to chisel apart your thermostat housing later. Don't ask me how I know.

 

I ordered my bushing, a Crown Automotive brand. It has a rough, jigsaw-like seam. Looks like it was pressed together. It's raised to where I can catch my fingernail on it. I thought a bushing was supposed to be milled perfectly smooth on the inside where it rubs against the shaft? Is my bushing defective or is it supposed to be like that? What bushing do you recommend, and where do you get it?

 

It should be smooth on the inside. I'd send it back.