I don't go by torque, and us the manf recommended finger tight and then X amount of rotation which is more accurate anyway. I also only use a tiny amount, not the giant slather that I've seen some people use and end up contaminating the electrode or squeezing out and getting under the boot.

The manufacturers claim their plugs are coated and don't need it, but I still see plenty of galling and damaged threads in aluminum heads.

 

I couldn't comment, but after a lifetime of changing plugs I reckon I know how to do it. However, it does occur to me that either method would have different values for new plugs & those with already compressed sealing washers - & different again for taper seats, so it's all down to judgment.
Agreed; judgment again!

Really, not seen any evidence of that but strange that, rather late in the day, they've realised we were right all along. Of course you only come across those sorts of problems in the real world; the one most of us live, & change plugs, in.

 

Way off the original topic. Someday I will start a thread on anti-seize and spark plug torque to help provide educational info for those willing to learn new approaches. Until then I found this from Brian Crall who has been working on extreme performance engines for over 38 years. (found here: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/th...mpound.615684/)

RifledriverThree Time F1 World Champ

Full Name: Brian Crall

#3Jan 20, 2020
I use nothing but NGK and they say don't use it. I have never, not once ever seen a Ferrari motor from the factory with anti seize. That includes back in the Champion Spark Plug days and later with NGK.

Given that, why do those guys know better than the combined engineering expertise of Ferrari and NGK?

Spark plug threads get damaged from boneheads, not lack of anti seize.