So my jeep's speakers were not working in drivers door and pass rear so i replaced them all hoping that this would solve...they still dont work and i know i wired correctly. could the problem be ing the dash off of the head unit?

Also my heater fan only works on 1 and 4...new Resistior Switch? or some where else

Problem 3 factory foglights do not work...and i just dont have the money for a multimeter...which i need badly...is ther any common places i can try? i already looked at all the fuses and relays and inspected all visiable wires...

 

I know this won't be much help, but I've had all the same problems. I'm almost positive it's a wiring problem because I've also replaced a bunch of things and it doesn't make any difference. Right now I'm wrestling with the wiring trying to figure out what's messed up (besides everything). At this point I think I'm going to have to rewire some things that the previous owner screwed up when he ripped out his massive stereo system and ruined all the wiring. Sorry I couldn't be much help but I wanted you to know at least you're not the only one having those problems.

 

my driver door speaker didnt work so i bought a new one and it still didnt work! so this spring im running all new wire to the speakers and replacing them with 6.5" infinitys

 

x2 it was my driver tho.. i had to run a hole new ground wire from the in side ( it was rusted out )

deff make sher your wires are good..

 

Had the same problem with my driver door speaker. It was a bad wire that goes to the speaker. I ran a new wire from behind my driver kick panel along the same wiring harness to the speaker and that solved it. The wire was corroded and broken where it is bundled inside the rubber sleeve going to the door...

 

you just cut and spliced rather than going from the head then?

 

haha thats the same thats wrong with mine but there all getting replaced will im makin a good atempt at redoin the whole speaker wiring system
any one got any pointers.

 

If its the wires your just going to have to pull every wire and look at them all and check the fuses again if one looks like it is even a little beat up change it. But i had a wiring issue like that and it had my car down for about a month to just find all the burnt wiring and replace it. But pick up a wiring diagram and see which wires go where so you dont have to check it all. Oh and check the relays and the fuses under the hood

 

#1

Door wiring commonly goes bad on late models. As it was touched earlier it gets corroded in a connection in the door boot. Happens on both doors, if theyre used enough.

Best fix, rewire from head unit with good wiring. Problem solved.

The rear sounds like another wire, OR head unit issue to me....easiest way to check would be to test the output on the back of the headunit, if theres power you just ruled out the unit...

#2

Fan resistors also known as stepped resistors, if bad in the middle, per say 2 and 3 not working, 1 wouldnt either (power has to run though 2 and 3 to make it to the motor). Most common symptom of that would be the fan only working on high, where the resistor is bypassed and full amps go to the motor....as far as ideas go from that, I'm not totally sure, and I wont just throw stuff at you.

#3

Common problem on late models of the fog lamp switch taking a dump. The two things I would check are the switch and relay for the fogs.

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=90899
here is a link to harbor freight (multi meter) if you watch they go on dell for 2 or 3 dollars if you have one near you

 

storm-

1. im a little weary on riping the whole dash apart...is it a pain to put back together?...prob should wait for warmer weather as i dont want to not have heat...i can live without A/c...darn thing doesent work well anyways needs charged...
2. so should i go to the junkyard and replace the 3 switches? or buy new?
3. i already checked the relay and tryed a diffrent one i have that i knew worked...once again id have to rip the dash apart

Dwd- Thanks much more affordable than FLUKE

 

The whole dash doesnt need to come apart, its just that one center bezel unit, theres not even a screw on that part. It just clips in then theres a few screws to pull the stereo and the part for the foggy switch. You could do both at the same time. That main bezel just pulls out, its a bit snug in there but does come out. You can run the wires from there (if thats what you do, then take off the plastic plate under the steering wheel, behind that is a metal plate lookin thing, that comes off too (them are only a few screws and clips, the plastic has screws on the bottom and a few top clips...another 5 mins to take them off) that should give you pretty much all the room you need to run wires. The passenger side on mine (also a 99) is open under the dash above the foot area....hopefully im not missing any plastic pieces ( i know the PO was in there plenty) but if i am i would imagine to open it up is just as easy as the rest...and putting it back together is just as easy.

As far as switches, if you test that blower resistor ( which i WOULD do, just to make sure thats the issue due to the fact it sounds odd it works on #1)

The foggy switch I know advance auto carries for in the round abouts of 20 something dollars....i would just get a new one, instead of getting another possible bad one/ one that will more than likely take a dump also.

Ohh time for some links since im lot lazy today. Take a few seconds and look.

Fog switch http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Fog-Light-Switch-BWD_19970413-P_862_R|GRPSESWAMS_1160848564___

Resistor
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Blower-Motor-Resistor-BWD_20972419-P_861_R|GRPSESWAMS_674745446___

Back to that resistor, If you can find one used that tests out good, I would snag it at the cost that thing is....unless you have the money, IMO new is always better if you can afford it...again do some tests and inspections on that blower issue, it still sounds a bit funny to me, possibly test the actual "twist switch" that you use to change the speeds, and make sure you look at all the plastic connectors for the system, I saw one today on a newer truck that was melted.......and I think I have read of at least one person having that happen on here too a while back.

Hope that helps a bit and at least points you in the right direction to get the issues pin-pointed!

 

You an get a decent multimeter for $25. If yu want to chase electrical gremlins, get one. You will spend more that that in parts you don't need before you finish doing it by trial and error.

 

x2, test lights are also very helpful and about 7$ for a good one.

 

Always run new wire, for amp & speakers. Factory wire is never the right gage. And you don't know what you got. I have 5.5's speakers in the doors. 6x9's in the hatch, and a 10" sub in the rear pass. side pocket. (all Rockford's) And a 5 channel amp (1400 watts) powering it all. Sounds like a concert hall. Love it.