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electric fan question

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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 09:44 AM
  #1  
xjmafia's Avatar
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From: Iowa
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default electric fan question

Well the past week my temp has fluctuated however it hasn't gotten waaaay hot. I let it run with hood open at operating temps and elec fan never kicked on. So this morning I tried to run my defrost like a guy on here told me to try and sure enough the temp stayed normal and when I parked the elec fan was kicking on and off as it should. Soooo why wouldn't it be doing it without the defrost running?. My t stat is new, water pump is new. New radiator. So this thing should cool! Lol
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 10:39 AM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
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Originally Posted by xjmafia
.........my temp has fluctuated however it hasn't gotten waaaay hot.........
Could u give a few more details? Factory preset for fan on is 218F coolant temp OR whenever a/c compressor engages.
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:02 AM
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From: Iowa
Year: 1988
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Default temp

Sure, while driving my operating temps since new radiator has been 190 to 210 depending on how hot it is outside. I noticed it would run a little warmer and when I would get to where I was going I opened the hood and let it run and the fan never was kicking on at operating temps or a lil above. This morning I ran my heat cuz its cold out and had it on defrost and when I got to work the elec fan was working and kicking on and off. So I'm not sure why it hasn't worked as it should prior to today
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Old Sep 16, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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If a/c compressor is not engaged or coolant temp has not reached 218F, efan will not be on. In cooler weather, say below 90F ambient, I wouldn't think coolant temp would reach 218F, so that leaves efan coming on only when a/c compressor is engaged. Verifying coolant temp with a infrared temp gun (pointed at t-stat cover) vs going by the dash gauge would be beneficial.
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 03:16 PM
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Year: 1989
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Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I am having similar issues with my '89 XJ. Temp gauge almost hit red zone about a week ago after hauling 2 motorcycle on trailer and back was crammed with stuff during recent move; it was cool at night and I took it easy on the highway, temp stayed pretty normal at about 210 until I reached my destination and stopped letting it idle. Took me a few minutes to park my trailer and by the time I was done temp needle had continued to climb until it was dangerously close to the red zone.

I think I may be losing a little coolant too, but can't find any leaks; ran a combustion leak check yesterday, and the results were negative. Electric fan works when hooked directly to battery, but I can't ever remember seeing it go on automatically; just tried running it w/ AC on and defrost on and it still doesn't kick on. Not sure if AC compressor is engaging though (it has never blown cold air and I think the pulley clutch may not be engaging). Checked coolant condition too and it too seems good. It is currently idling in my driveway as I type this to see if I can get it up to 218 degrees (I have a laser temp gun) and see if it kicks on then. Will post back w/ results.

Temp seems OK as long as I am moving, but starts to creep up when stuck in traffic. Wondering if the thermostatic fan switch is bad, or maybe need a coolant system flush and/or new thermostat?
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 03:23 PM
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
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Cooling system maintenance? How old are cooling system components? One or several could be failing.
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 03:43 PM
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No idea how old the cooling system components are, it's got about 202,000 extremely well maintained miles, but there's always a high possibility for parts failure with a high mileage vehicle. Never a bad idea to flush the system and replace the thermostat while you're at it I suppose. Hoses look good though, and I can't see it leaking a drop of coolant anywhere.

However, after idling and wasting my gas for about 30 minutes, I could not get the temp higher than 221 F at the T-stat (and E-fan still didn't kick on); yet when I aimed my temp gauge at (what I am assuming is) the thermostatic fan switch on the radiator, the temp read 200 F. Should it read 220 at the switch before the fan kicks on?
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 04:28 PM
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If one has had an unexplained over heat and doesn't know how old components are, may be a good time to replace all components that involve draining the cooling system. Multiple drain/refills are a hassle.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:27 AM
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Technically, it never actually overheated, but it had never gotten that hot before, and was pretty close to the red zone.

I drove it today for a bit, and it actually ran pretty cool, temp stayed at or below 200 F the whole time, even while stopped in traffic. It was a bit cooler today at about 85 degrees though, and I didn't drive too far, probably about 20 minutes each way. I don't mind replacing the thermostat because it's cheap and fairly easy, but I can't seem to justify doing the water pump unless I know it's bad. And I can tell with my eye and my hand that the hoses are in decent shape.

How can I tell if the water pump's going out? Will it start screeching, have play in the shaft, or does it have a "weep hole" that starts leaking coolant if it is bad? I'm leaning toward the electric fan thermostatic switch as the culprit.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:31 AM
  #10  
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Best way to tell if a unknown how old water pump is going bad is let it age naturally......place it in the box that the new water pump came in. LOL
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 10:54 AM
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