Hey All,

I KNOW this has been talked about a million times, but nothing came up when I searched for it...

I've done pretty much everything that has to do with rough idling issues,
TPS, new and adjusted
CKP, new

My next thought was to clean or replace my EGR Valve, anyone clue me in to the best way to clean it, or if it's bad, how can I tell?

Thanks in advance!

 

Hook a vacuum pump up to the egr,start the jeep and while idling pull vacuum and see if there is a change in idle.

 

Here you go.............

TESTING EGR VALVE

Valve Opening Test
1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,
rapidly open and close throttle. Open throttle sufficiently to obtain
at least 1500 RPM. Movement should be noticed in EGR diaphragm.
2) If diaphragm does not move, probable causes are: faulty
vacuum signal to EGR, defective EGR diaphragm or defective
backpressure sensor diaphragm (if equipped), or leaks in vacuum lines
or connections.
Valve Closing Test
1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle,
manually depress EGR valve diaphragm. RPM should immediately drop,
indicating that EGR valve is not leaking and had been properly cutting
off exhaust gas flow at idle.
2) If there is no change in RPM and engine is idling
properly, exhaust gases are not reaching combustion chamber. Check for
plugged passage between EGR valve and intake manifold.
3) If engine idles poorly and RPM is not greatly affected by
manually moving diaphragm up, EGR valve is not closing off exhaust gas
flow. Check for carbon between pintle, leaking EGR valve gasket or bad
EGR valve.

 

Or this will work too.

 

you can also operate the egr valve with a screwdriver, just slip it into one of the spaces in the back of the valve and press lightly to operate the valve if you idle gets lousy the valve works fine. if it does not change the idle and you feel the need to clean rather than replace WD40 will break up the carbon. Be gentle and use a set of pics or something like. also the diaphram in front of the valve only comes with a new valve so if it is bad, well you know.

 

Cool, thanks guys, I will have to try that. Looks super easy to just replace, found one on rockauto for $50, plus $3 for the gasket, not bad.

 

o2 sensors are possible, also what about fuel delivery- i had a bad hesitation/rough idle/backfiring from manifold... the solution ended up being that my tank had a generous amount of grit in it that had totally destroyed my filters and pump itself. this issue went on for a year while i replaced EVERYTHING else to do with the firing/ignition/delivery/etc systems...