Hi All,

I have a 2000 Black Cherokee Limited with 137,000 miles on it. It has been driven for 10 straight years by my dad with no problems.

This has happened twice over a two month period, the last time was yesterday. For whatever reason, my front left brake locks up and starts sticking after driving for any-wheres over 30 minutes. I really notice it on straightaways when it starts to noticeably pull to the left. By then I was trying to get home when the friction of the constant pressure of the brake on the disc started smoking (kind of a lot). I would then get out and could feel heat radiating off the caliper and disc. I would then let it sit for an hour or two, on both occasions, and take it out again to see what would happen. The problem would go away and it would run perfectly again.

Just 3 weeks ago I had a bunch of fluids flushed and changed. This includes my break fluid. I was also told that my break pads still had about 50% left of life on them, if that helps either. The breaks have also been cleaned with brake cleaner after the flush was done.

I am going to bring the heep into the shop next week, but until then I'll get under her and see if I can find anything I missed that doesn't look normal

If you guys could give any input until then it would be much appreciated.
-George

 

The flush could have actually introduced some crud into the braking system or loosened some dirt or rust in the system. The caliper could be a bit rusty causing it to stick. It could just be time for a caliper rebuild or replacement.The slide pins could be dry and filthy/rusty. Hard to tell with out actually pulling it apart and seeing the piston and bore.

Not sure if you are interested in doing the work your self but Napa Auto Parts,$60.49 - Caliper w/ Hardware - Left Front (Eclipse Semi-Loaded) - Remfd

 

Thanks Spoonman!

Yeah I think I'll definitely see the problem when I look at the caliper myself. I think I will end up just putting a new one in. The caliper stuck once before the flush and once after, so I'll check the lines again too

 

Most recommend replacing them in pairs.

 

From experience i would say check the brake lines for a collapsed line creating a one way valve. Ive had this happen i changed the calipers just to find a collapsed brake line. I just grabed the line lightly and it bent and fell apart and started leaking. Just from a touch and small squeeze. So thats worth a check.

From my manual it says this...


Application and release of the brake pedal gener-
ates only a very slight movement of the caliper and
piston. Upon release of the pedal, the caliper and pis-
ton return to a rest position. The brake shoes do not
retract an appreciable distance from the rotor. In
fact, clearance is usually at, or close to zero. The rea-
sons for this are to keep road debris from getting
between the rotor and lining and in wiping the rotor
surface clear each revolution.
The caliper piston seal controls the amount of pis-
ton extension needed to compensate for normal lining
wear.
During brake application, the seal is deflected out-
ward by fluid pressure and piston movement.
When the brakes (and fluid pressure) are released,
the seal relaxes and retracts the piston.
The amount of piston retraction is determined by
the amount of seal deflection. Generally the amount
is just enough to maintain contact between the pis-
ton and inboard brake shoe.

and this...


BRAKE DRAG
Brake drag occurs when the lining is in constant
contact with the rotor or drum. Drag can occur at one
wheel, all wheels, fronts only, or rears only.
Drag is a product of incomplete brake shoe release.
Drag can be minor or severe enough to overheat the
linings, rotors and drums.
Minor drag will usually cause slight surface char-
ring of the lining. It can also generate hard spots in
rotors and drums from the overheat-cool down pro-
cess. In most cases, the rotors, drums, wheels and
tires are quite warm to the touch after the vehicle is
stopped.
Severe drag can char the brake lining all the way
through. It can also distort and score rotors and
drums to the point of replacement. The wheels, tires
and brake components will be extremely hot. In
severe cases, the lining may generate smoke as it
chars from overheating.
Common causes of brake drag are:
• Seized or improperly adjusted parking brake
cables.
• Loose/worn wheel bearing.
• Seized caliper or wheel cylinder piston.
• Caliper binding on corroded bushings or rusted
slide surfaces.
• Loose caliper mounting.
• Drum brake shoes binding on worn/damaged
support plates.
• Mis-assembled components.
• Long booster output rod.
If brake drag occurs at all wheels, the problem
may be related to a blocked master cylinder return
port, or faulty power booster (binds-does not release).

...end of manual.

My 2000xj had notches on the slide surfaces, which are part of your steering knuckle. Not quite the same symptoms, but i could imagine it could cause what your experiencing.

So in summary- check brake lines, if they still seem tough, then check for notches on the slide surfaces. The green highlight is just to say that the caliper itself is probably ok, you might just need to replace the piston seals. Which ive never done, but is cheaper. Altho the calipers for xj's seemed cheap $ wise-last time i looked.

Good luck and keep us updated!

 

Thanks everyone for your help! I blasted both calipers with break cleaner and later this week I'm going to replace both and just start out new, I think that will definitely solve my problem.

 

I had the same issue with my '91 other side went out a week later, Besides the fact it make for good even brake. Be sure to drain fluid as it may have over heated.

 

Also ... look for grooves worn in the rails on your steering knuckles. The rails are the things that the bottom your pads metal backing plates rest on. If the rails are grooved, it will prevent the pads from sliding in and out. It happened on my xj and I fixed it with a wire welder.

Here's a good writeup on the subject done by somebody else:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/xj...rooves-924713/

 

We're getting the same problem with our 2009 Cherokee which we've had since new. Only 25,000 on the clock. First happened last Saturday after a run of about 20 miles - steering took on vibration (like a really unbalanced wheel) and front disc was smoking hot. Took ages to cool down.
Took it to mechanic who removed wheel and inspected calliper which seemed fine. He took it for a 5 mile test with no problem. We did a 25 mile run today and same problem.........
Any further ideas? is this a particular problem?

 

Since you say you have a 09 Cherokee, I am sure that you mean a Grand Cherokee. You might get a better answer for your GC in the GC section. This is the XJ section. Most of the guys and gals know more about the XJ's then the GC.
Welcome to the forum and I hope that you get the answer you are looking for.

 

Was the rotor blue? if it was things are not fine, I would take it back to the mechanic.

 

Had the same problem. Finally removed the calipers and applied a light coat of "Never Cease" (the aluminum type lubricant) on the sliding area of both the calipers and the pads. Then reassembled the brakes. Tried it out, and no more problem.
I've found that I have to repeat this about every 2 years, but no problems with sticky calipers, ever.
Hope this helps.

 

Didn't realise they made a Cherokee in 09? You must be talking about a completely different vehicle like the grand Cherokee lol.

 

I just did this weld and grind to my 1999, thanks for this link, it was spot on.

 

i had collapsed hoses would let fluid out but was sloooow going back causing drag for a while. with anything i drive, when i stop on a grade/hill, i shift to neutral to see if i drift right now, good brake check daily.