7ate9

What's the best way to take the serpentine/ drive belt off? There is no tensioner just an idler pulley. I'm replacing my WP. Thermostat hoses ect.. I've got a Haynes book but it's not very specific. Looks like there's a bolt on the power steering is this what I've got to loosen once I've got the bracket bolts off .

sycoglitch

Easy as pie. Loosen the idlers pulley with IIrC a 15mm wrench. Once loose you then loosen the bolt on top the power steering. People Will Chime in with the correct wrench sizes if im wrong. Don't have them on top my head

Edit: also always post your jeeps year and engine, trim etc so we can better help you. And as for the PS pump bolt, you turn it so the idler pulley raises and loosens the belt

7ate9

Yep sorry it's a 1990xj 4.0 HO. I6 AWD 242 TC
Thanks for your help !

7ate9

Looks like I have to loosen several bolts on the power steering bracket in order to get it to pivot?
Can it be done with just loosening the top bolt?

Pelican

It's easier to get at the tensioner bolt on the lower part of the power steering bracket if you remove the air box.

The pulley on the power steering bracket is not an idler, it turns the power steering pump.

I don't believe I have ever loosened or removed the idler pulley to loosen the belt.

Pelican

You are correct. There are two bolts that you loosen from the rear with an end wrench . 1/2 inch if I had to guess. Also from the front loosen the pivot screw for the tensioner bolt and I believe one other bolt but I can't swear to that without looking at it.

Edit: This is the setup for the '93. I cannot swear that the '90 is the same.

salad

Prior to 1997 should use that magic bolts on the power steering pump.



Loosen until you can remove it

Rockfrog

And if it hasn't been done in a loooong time ... You may need to tap the end of the adjustment bolt to get it to move. Spray it with your favourite penetrant prior to and afterwards to make life easier the next time.

sycoglitch

That's why we need the year lol. Love how easy the newer models are. Ever with the tight space the idler pulley doesn't give issue to loosen up.

cruiser54

Here's another photo/diagram.

RTorrez1

I'm curious. Did you already pull the fan shroud from around you mechanical fan or do you not have one? If you don't have one I would suggest that you add that to your parts list when you get you new water pump. Your engine will run cooler with it.

7ate9

Yep already pulled the fan shroud working on the water pump pulley now.
Q can you get the lower radiator hose with a spring inside to keep the hose from collapsing? Part #? 1990 xj 4d I6 aw4 danA 35 w/ 242tc
Also I need a 195* thermostat is this correct?
Anything else any more tip much appreciated thanks everyone for the help I'm getting.

Temp outside is 95 and all I have is an umbrella hahaa

Pelican

Yes, 195* thermostat, preferably OEM unit from the dealer or Stant Superstat (my opinion). None of the fail safe, fail open or other specialty units.

I've always just swapped the spring into the new hose, which supposes of course that you have an old hose with a spring. I think I saw a comment in the forum recently about hoses with springs being available from the dealer although I thought they no longer came that way. Perhaps someone will chime in.

cruiser54

You don't need the spring. It was only there to facilitate filling the cooling system on the assembly line using vacuum or pressure..........

7ate9

Well I made some progress today in the heat :/
Pulled everything off and found out thermostat is a 180* made by motorad) I'm assuming it would run at 210 *now all the time with a 195* ??
I got the superstant part # 45359 195*f/90*c
There was a lot of excess RTV inside the thermostat housing too.
Why would someone put a 180 in there ?