Thanks

 

Gee, sorry, my crystal ball was at the cleaners so I had no way of knowing it was your kids Cherokee, and he was not at home.

 

In which case a friendlier reply would have been better than a snarky one. Just sayin'.

 

No need for a third party to respond and add their own "snarky" comment. Just saying.

 

Stirs fresh fluid around and breaks up accumulated crud - and does it more gently than a solvent flush (generally OK with the AW4 - at least the milder ones) and far more gently than a powerflush (which the AW4 doesn't seem to like.)

Concur with using Dex/Merc fluid - the AW4 doesn't like the friction modifiers in +3/+4, and it makes the clutches chatter rather badly.

And the AW4 does indeed have a drain plug - it takes a 10m/m socket (as I recall,) and you'll get about three quarts plus of fluid out. There's still a little left, due to the raised lip around the plug threads - but it makes dropping the pan easier. I'd take the pan down the first time to clean it out and clean the magnet off - the filter is a steel sump strainer screen, so just clean it and put it back.

The dipstick tube needs to come apart to drop the pan - there's a slip joint 4-6" up from the bend into the pan. Clean the slip joint when you get it apart, and lubricate it with never-seez. You only need to drop the pan for inpection about every third or fourth change after you clean it out the first time.

 

LMAO>.

No worries, I figured I handled it with my snarky comment back...Afterall, it is the Interwebnets... but let's be real, you threw out the first comment assuming I was being lazy... bygones...

 

Most excellent... My only other question is with regards to the pan gasket, this will be the first time I have done something like this..so is there some kind of sealer that needs to be applied? I have a new rubber gasket... I also have a new filter, so that is getting changed this time around..next time I'll just clean it.. Never-seez, is this a brand? or the actual name of the product? Hitting up google as we speak..

Thanks for the tips.. This will be a warm day project as soon as the warm day happens...

 

Just from past experiences on this and other forums I visit, a question like the one posted, was usually posted by a slacker. You know what "they" say about the word assume.

 

Is this where we ask...What's the Best kind of Oil, Tires, Octane, Lift kit to use?? LOL

 

Slick oil and round tires, I'm still testing octane and lift kits. I hope my government grant comes through soon so I can keep the study going.

 

I usually do not use a gasket and just apply red or black rtv. If you use it, be sure to follow the directions and let it sit before you put the pan on.

 

I use the gasket and tighten the pan bolts down just until I see the gasket start to squeeze a little. If you over tighten the pan bolts, you'll deform the pan and split the gasket, and then you will have a leak.

 

I use a cork gasket, and use it bare. No trouble yet.

If you want to simplify things a bit for yourself (less wrestling,) you can install about four M6-1.0x20m/m studs widely spaced about the perimeter of the sump. Get the gasket and sump in place, start the nuts. You now have both hands free to get everything else lined up and started (don't tighten the nuts - just get them on the studs!) and then you can tighten everything up once all of the screws are in place.

Torque to something like 60-95 pound-inches (about 5-8 pound-feet) so you don't crush the gasket.

You can probably use the rubber gasket bare as well - it's not a pressure seal - I just prefer the cork. However, using the gasket bare makes it easier to clean when servicing next time...