Ok So I found out how to do it yourself alignment I loosened the 1/2 inch bolts and tried to turn my tie rod like it says too and the damn thing won't turn I was using Vise Grips and all my force and it wouldn't turn. Any help appreciated

 

use a plumbers pipe wrench. down to toe in and up to toe out. you might have to use some super penetrant on the threads for the tie rod ends.
this is on the tie rod that goes across the bottom of the axle, so to speak.

to line your steering wheel back to center, loosen the two bolts on the adjuster sleeve on the drag link and turn that till the steering wheel is centered.

 

I use a 2 foot pipe wrench at work. MAke sure clamps are good and loose

 

my dads were rusted so bad we replaced all the tie rod ends and the sleeves. Got to say it moves fine now.

 

So do I need to put the pipe wrench on the drivers side toe end or in the middle?

 

loosen BOTH tie rod clamps,Put the pipe wrench right in the middle of the tie rod shaft that runs parallel wit the axle. Turn downward to toe the wheels IN, Upward to toe out. The strighten the steering wheel you will loosen the 2 clamps on the drag link, the one that connect to the steering box, and turn the adjuster sleeve so that the steering wheel move to the center.

 

You may need a propane torch to heat the tie rod to break the rust.

 

exactly, couldn't have said it better myself. lol.

 

ok i got it turning now. Which way should I turn it my tires are pulled in so I need to pull it up right to make the botom of the tire even with the top right?

 

yup, the drivers side tie rod end is right handed thread. so just like any nut and bolt, when you thread it clockwise, it threads in, making the bolt length shorter.
the passenger side inner tie rod end is left handed thread. so opposite (counter-clockwise) thread.
this way when you turn the long tie rod shaft down, you're shortening the distance between each rod end. turn the tie rod up and you will make the distance greater between each rod end.

i know it's confusing. but twist the bar up to point the tires out and down to pull them in towards each other.

 

I'm not a fan of doing driveway alignments. If you set the toe wrong, you'll tear up the front tires unless you catch it before it starts cause wear problem. Local shop charges $60 for a alignment. Which cheaper than replacing tires. Also the will check Caster and camber to make sure those are in specs as well.

 

I didn't know you could change the caster/camber on solid front axles...

oh and, you don't want the tires perfectly parallel, i think 1/8 inch in at the front is what it is supposed to be at, for steering and whatnot.

correct me if i'm wrong.

 

you can do caster if you have adjustable control arms. camber can't be done without adjustable ball joints.

1/8 inch toe in if you have a 231 t-case.
0 toe in if you have a 242 t-case.

 

and, just useless knowledge.

toe is in on rear wheel drives and out on front wheel drives.

as you drive a rear wheel drive, the forces of being pushed try to push the tires out while a front wheel drive is pulling the wheels inwards.

told you, useless

 

Every tie rod I've seen. the threaded ends are different. (1 fine, 1 course) And depending on how much you need to move it, in or out. Determine which end. I work for a company called AxleTech. (manufacturing Military axles, Originally owned by Dana axle co., Bought by Rockwell, Now owned by General Dynamics International) My advise would be to take to a shop, get it done right. They'll have the right tools, and know the torque specs. of the castle nuts.......................................JMO!