Do I have to remove the Transfer case to to Replace the Chain??
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
My TC chain is making noise at low speeds 35MPH and lower .I think I have to replace the Chain,do I have to remove the TC or just remove the rear driveshaft then the TC cover? SHOULD I NOT DRIVE MY XJ UNTIL I FIX IT????
Last edited by BUELLIGAN; Sep 28, 2019 at 05:14 PM.
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From: Hunt County Texas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Technically no. But its not hard to remove and tearing it down to rebuild is much easier on a bench than under the Jeep. Exception being if maybe you have a lift.
If you're replacing the chain you might as well replace the bearings while you're in there.
Youll be find driving it for now if you need to. I wouldnt drive cross.country or anything but local stuff should be fine.
If you're replacing the chain you might as well replace the bearings while you're in there.
Youll be find driving it for now if you need to. I wouldnt drive cross.country or anything but local stuff should be fine.
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Joined: Jun 2010
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
OK, it has 199K on the clock now. I did not want to go crazy with a super rebuild or any thing.
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Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 1,096
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From: Hunt County Texas
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Just seems kinda like doing the job halfway to me to pull down a 200,000 mile component to replace the chain and not go ahead and replace the bearings and seals. Especially if the chain has been dragging on the case sending aluminium shavings through the bearings.
Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers
How sure are you that it's the xfer case chain? Which xfer case, and do you have the front axle vacuum disconnect (ie is the front xfer case output even turning)? Try jacking the back end up and running in 2wd and see if you still hear the noise. If you do, it's not the chain. Depending on whether you have the disco, you either spin the front shaft by hand or jack up a front tire and spin it and listen to the case.
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From: Lost in the wilds of Virginia
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Its a super easy unit to rebuild just pick up someof the pliers linked below for the snap rings. Youll need them to do the chain anyway.
Just seems kinda like doing the job halfway to me to pull down a 200,000 mile component to replace the chain and not go ahead and replace the bearings and seals. Especially if the chain has been dragging on the case sending aluminium shavings through the bearings.
Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00209ETSS..._92aKDb1D3590K
Just seems kinda like doing the job halfway to me to pull down a 200,000 mile component to replace the chain and not go ahead and replace the bearings and seals. Especially if the chain has been dragging on the case sending aluminium shavings through the bearings.
Stanley Proto J250G Proto 9-Inch Lock Ring Horseshoe Washer Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00209ETSS..._92aKDb1D3590K
X10!
All that work to do a half job makes no sense at all.
And..... then there's this excellent bit of wisdom:
A little diagnosis before jumping in and buying parts is a much better way to live life.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's easy to remove the T/C.
I personally would want to do that work on a bench to get everything 'right'. The extra time it takes ya to do it under the vehicle (if you *can* do it under there) would be off-set by the speed and precision of rebuilding it on the bench (IMO). Plus, if you take it apart, you should consider replacing the front input seal, the front/rear output seals and the rear driveshaft bushing ...especially with the miles it has on it. I think there's a coupler on the input side which you could consider replacing too ...to perhaps reduce some driveline 'slop'. but that's optional.
Good luck!
I personally would want to do that work on a bench to get everything 'right'. The extra time it takes ya to do it under the vehicle (if you *can* do it under there) would be off-set by the speed and precision of rebuilding it on the bench (IMO). Plus, if you take it apart, you should consider replacing the front input seal, the front/rear output seals and the rear driveshaft bushing ...especially with the miles it has on it. I think there's a coupler on the input side which you could consider replacing too ...to perhaps reduce some driveline 'slop'. but that's optional.
Good luck!
Last edited by Jeepwalker; Sep 29, 2019 at 09:13 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
I am trying to ad a Video of the noise my TC is making but I cant for some reason. It is a NP231 TC
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 235
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From: Bloodymore Murderland I am a Preacher of the Good news of JESUS CHRIST ,a Bad Actor ,Metal Bass play
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0
Transfer case Noise Still Trying to Load the Video Noise of the TC.
Last edited by BUELLIGAN; Oct 4, 2019 at 08:28 PM.
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Are you sure it's not the rear end starting to 'go'?
They're weak and sometimes hard to tell the noises apart. I know from personal experience. Worth tripple-checking.
They're weak and sometimes hard to tell the noises apart. I know from personal experience. Worth tripple-checking.
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
Likes: 134
From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When the rear pinion bearing went out on my jeep, it sounded just like it was coming from the xfer case. Seriously. I was convinced and ready to pull the TC out until I removed the drive shaft and could feel the pinion rotation action was rather rough.
Definitely check the pinion 'feel' and 'play' w/o the driveshaft by hand first before ordering any parts. It's easier if you remove the rear tires ...the axle rotates easier. The T/C chains are pretty robust, they don't stretch as much as most people think.
Definitely check the pinion 'feel' and 'play' w/o the driveshaft by hand first before ordering any parts. It's easier if you remove the rear tires ...the axle rotates easier. The T/C chains are pretty robust, they don't stretch as much as most people think.
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