"To do" AW4 while its out??
#1
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Year: 2001
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"To do" AW4 while its out??
So I nabbed a 4x4 trans and t-case this weekend and am wondering if anyone has some suggestions for what I could do to it while its out? I plan to clean it and got a new filter and pan gasket. Wondering if I should maybe replace the pump seal while I can?
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on how to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Now seems like a great time to do that.
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on how to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Now seems like a great time to do that.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So I nabbed a 4x4 trans and t-case this weekend and am wondering if anyone has some suggestions for what I could do to it while its out? I plan to clean it and got a new filter and pan gasket. Wondering if I should maybe replace the pump seal while I can?
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on how to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Now seems like a great time to do that.
Also, does anyone have a suggestion on how to get as much of the old fluid out as possible? Now seems like a great time to do that.
Always a good idea to change the pump seal while its accessible.
What year is this Tranny/TC? What TC?
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Year: 1999
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I only have a few suggestions.
Transmission electrical circuits:
Using a high impedance Digital Ohmmeter check the following at the electrical harness connectors.
Input and Output transmission Speed Sensors (They're a bugger to get to when the tranny is installed). See pic and ISS/OSS Connector (Black connector).
View of tranny showing ISS/OSS locations:
ISS/OSS/Solenoids connector pinout:
Testing ISS/OSS resistance:
Using the Ohmmeter set at 2K Ohms, measure the resistance of the ISS by probing pin cavities 1 and 5. Resistance should be around 625 Ohms (.625 on meter).
Repeat for OSS, pin cavities 7 to 6.
The resistance valve I posted is from a spare Speed Sensor I have and measured at 60* F. Your values may differ somewhat but should never read straight continuity or open. If your readings are bad, unplug the connector to the offending sensor and take a reading directly at the sensor. If it's okay now there's a problem in the harness, if it's still bad replace the sensor. OEM part number 4897734AA.
~~~~~~~~
Solenoids Resistance Checking:
Ohmmeter set to 200 Ohms,
In turn, measure the resistance of the solenoids, measuring from pin cavities 2, 3, and 4, to the transmission body (ground probe).
Each solenoid should read between 11 and 15 Ohms. (FSM values). If any solenoid is out of range, replace it when you have the pan off.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Testing Transmission Range Sensor (NSS) functions.
Refer to the NSS Connector (Gray) pinout and function chart below.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Transfer Case.
Drain fluid from the TC. Remove the FILL plug (upper plug) first, then the DRAIN plug (lower plug), using a 10 MM Hex stock socket.
Do not refill TC until the tranny/TC is installed in the Jeep so its at the proper attitude (level) for refill.
Suggest you get these hex head plugs from NAPA to use in place of the internal wrenching plugs.
These plugs take a 19 MM wrench on the hex.
You can install and tighten down the DRAIN plug but leave the REFILL plug out as a reminder to fill the TC after install. (stuff the hole with a bit of rag.
Suggest you use the same ATF in the TC as you will be using in the tranny, i.e., Dexron III/Mercon (DEX MERC).
~~~~~~~
Tranny/TC breather hoses.
Now's a good time to replace the rubber breather hoses for the transmission and the TC. 5/16" ID for the TC and 1/4" ID for the transmission.
Transmission electrical circuits:
Using a high impedance Digital Ohmmeter check the following at the electrical harness connectors.
Input and Output transmission Speed Sensors (They're a bugger to get to when the tranny is installed). See pic and ISS/OSS Connector (Black connector).
View of tranny showing ISS/OSS locations:
ISS/OSS/Solenoids connector pinout:
Testing ISS/OSS resistance:
Using the Ohmmeter set at 2K Ohms, measure the resistance of the ISS by probing pin cavities 1 and 5. Resistance should be around 625 Ohms (.625 on meter).
Repeat for OSS, pin cavities 7 to 6.
The resistance valve I posted is from a spare Speed Sensor I have and measured at 60* F. Your values may differ somewhat but should never read straight continuity or open. If your readings are bad, unplug the connector to the offending sensor and take a reading directly at the sensor. If it's okay now there's a problem in the harness, if it's still bad replace the sensor. OEM part number 4897734AA.
~~~~~~~~
Solenoids Resistance Checking:
Ohmmeter set to 200 Ohms,
In turn, measure the resistance of the solenoids, measuring from pin cavities 2, 3, and 4, to the transmission body (ground probe).
Each solenoid should read between 11 and 15 Ohms. (FSM values). If any solenoid is out of range, replace it when you have the pan off.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Testing Transmission Range Sensor (NSS) functions.
Refer to the NSS Connector (Gray) pinout and function chart below.
Test switch continuity in the gear ranges indicated. Switch continuity should be as follows:
- Continuity should exist between terminals B and C with the transmission in Park and Neutral only.
- Continuity should exist between terminals A and E with the transmission in Reverse.
- Continuity should exist between terminals A and G with the transmission in third gear.
- Continuity should exist between terminals A and H with the transmission in first and/or second gear
- Continuity should not exist in D position.
~~~~~~~~~~~
Transfer Case.
Drain fluid from the TC. Remove the FILL plug (upper plug) first, then the DRAIN plug (lower plug), using a 10 MM Hex stock socket.
Do not refill TC until the tranny/TC is installed in the Jeep so its at the proper attitude (level) for refill.
Suggest you get these hex head plugs from NAPA to use in place of the internal wrenching plugs.
These plugs take a 19 MM wrench on the hex.
You can install and tighten down the DRAIN plug but leave the REFILL plug out as a reminder to fill the TC after install. (stuff the hole with a bit of rag.
Suggest you use the same ATF in the TC as you will be using in the tranny, i.e., Dexron III/Mercon (DEX MERC).
~~~~~~~
Tranny/TC breather hoses.
Now's a good time to replace the rubber breather hoses for the transmission and the TC. 5/16" ID for the TC and 1/4" ID for the transmission.
Last edited by CCKen; 11-05-2013 at 09:46 AM.
#5
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CCKen... thanks for the great info! So when they pulled the trans at the junkyard they were not exactly careful. Haha. They basically just unbolted the TC, bell housing, and cross member then cut everything else to speed it up. The trans cable was one of those and will need to be changed. Do you think the one from my 2WD one will work and how does it come off/go on and is there a need and method to adjust it?
Also, they cracked the bell housing so I'm thinking hopefully the 2WD one will be a direct replacement. Thoughts there as well??
Also, they cracked the bell housing so I'm thinking hopefully the 2WD one will be a direct replacement. Thoughts there as well??
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CCKen... thanks for the great info! So when they pulled the trans at the junkyard they were not exactly careful. Haha. They basically just unbolted the TC, bell housing, and cross member then cut everything else to speed it up. The trans cable was one of those and will need to be changed. Do you think the one from my 2WD one will work and how does it come off/go on and is there a need and method to adjust it?
Also, they cracked the bell housing so I'm thinking hopefully the 2WD one will be a direct replacement. Thoughts there as well??
Also, they cracked the bell housing so I'm thinking hopefully the 2WD one will be a direct replacement. Thoughts there as well??
When you say "trans cable", are you referring to the gearshift cable that attaches to the Manual Valve Shaft lever. If so, the end should snap off and on the shift lever.
If the replacement tranny won't allow the engine to start when you select PARK and/or NEUTRAL, the cable will need to be adjusted.
The bellhousing should fit right up.
Was the throttle valve cable butchered as well?
Last edited by CCKen; 11-15-2013 at 01:03 PM.
#7
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Forgot to mention; you should change these as well.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...5427&ppt=C0073
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...5427&ppt=C0073
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#9
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Junk Yard Rats...
When you say "trans cable", are you referring to the gearshift cable that attaches to the Manual Valve Shaft lever. If so, the end should snap off and on the shift lever.
If the replacement tranny won't allow the engine to start when you select PARK and/or NEUTRAL, the cable will need to be adjusted.
The bellhousing should fit right up.
Was the throttle valve cable butchered as well?
When you say "trans cable", are you referring to the gearshift cable that attaches to the Manual Valve Shaft lever. If so, the end should snap off and on the shift lever.
If the replacement tranny won't allow the engine to start when you select PARK and/or NEUTRAL, the cable will need to be adjusted.
The bellhousing should fit right up.
Was the throttle valve cable butchered as well?
And your right... it was the TV cable I'm seeing that was cut. Well, both were actually but the shaft lever should just pop off whats left and the existing 2wd on pop back on. Heck, these guys even cut through the t-case shift rod because they couldn't/didn't want to pop it off the shifter bracket. haha!
So what is the procedure for changing out the TV cable at the transmission?
Do you have any idea if the cross members are different between the 2 and 4wds?
#10
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Normally I would agree with being angry about the way it was pulled but given the condition of the junkyard (on the side of a hill and all mud!) I was willing to over look their methods in lew of me having to try and get it out. Yeah...it sucks but at least I didn't wind up with a jeep falling on me. haha
And your right... it was the TV cable I'm seeing that was cut. Well, both were actually but the shaft lever should just pop off whats left and the existing 2wd on pop back on. Heck, these guys even cut through the t-case shift rod because they couldn't/didn't want to pop it off the shifter bracket. haha!
So what is the procedure for changing out the TV cable at the transmission?
Do you have any idea if the cross members are different between the 2 and 4wds?
And your right... it was the TV cable I'm seeing that was cut. Well, both were actually but the shaft lever should just pop off whats left and the existing 2wd on pop back on. Heck, these guys even cut through the t-case shift rod because they couldn't/didn't want to pop it off the shifter bracket. haha!
So what is the procedure for changing out the TV cable at the transmission?
Do you have any idea if the cross members are different between the 2 and 4wds?
It looks like you don't have an FSM or parts catalog.
Go to Morris 4x4 Center here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm
Scroll down the page to "On Line Repair Manual"
In the windows, select Jeep Cherokee, 1996-2001, under category, select Tansmission and Transfer Case. The manual will pop up. Go to page 217, which is the beginning of the AW4 section.
Further down the page, under, Vehicle Specific Catalogs and Manuals, 1984-2004 XJ, click on 2001 pdf. You'll get the parts catelog.
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