Diminishing braking power
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Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 514
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 2.5
Consider a new master. Easy and inexpensive enough. Also here is a tip that may not be related, do not overfill the master. There is a line that says MAX...look for it. If you overfill, once the fluid in the calipers or wheel cylinders is hot, the fluid expands and has nowhere to go and you get brake drag. I chased that for a month.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
ZJ grand cherokee or KJ Liberty. I don't think the rear brakes from a WJ will work.
I didn't need to change the master or proportioning valve when I did the swap. You bolt the backing plate on (use the longer backing plate studs too), brackets, rotors, calipers, and that's about it. You might need longer rear studs if you have aluminum wheels. Use the lug studs from an 04 Rubicon TJ.
The only thing I had to do outside of straight bolting it together was cut the brake line flares off from the KJ brake lines at the block, swap on the flare nuts from my XJ, then flare the ends. The KJ uses metric thread fittings, and the XJ uses SAE. Otherwise, it's a direct bolt on swap.
I didn't need to change the master or proportioning valve when I did the swap. You bolt the backing plate on (use the longer backing plate studs too), brackets, rotors, calipers, and that's about it. You might need longer rear studs if you have aluminum wheels. Use the lug studs from an 04 Rubicon TJ.
The only thing I had to do outside of straight bolting it together was cut the brake line flares off from the KJ brake lines at the block, swap on the flare nuts from my XJ, then flare the ends. The KJ uses metric thread fittings, and the XJ uses SAE. Otherwise, it's a direct bolt on swap.
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