DIES every time i turn right. help i heard this is common.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: NW WA
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
every time now, every single time i turn right when i am slowing down as well to turn into my parking lot at work the engine dies. what the hell up???????????? 89 comanche w/straight six
btw, re-starts easily and quickly as soon as i stop or put into neutral. fuel level doesn't matter.
btw, re-starts easily and quickly as soon as i stop or put into neutral. fuel level doesn't matter.
Last edited by bullheimer; Oct 14, 2011 at 01:11 AM.
I was going to say fuel level, but you threw that idea out.. My jeeps gas gauge is a 1/8th off. So everypne in a while when gas gets low, Ill make a left or right turn and she will stutter or just shut off
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 553
Likes: 1
From: West Texas
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L

seems to me you have a short somewhere (shorting when you turn right as you say, that is.)
where is your relay and large fuse box located in engine compartment?
if its on passenger side like mine, might want to while engine is off, measure resistance from your fuel pump relay wires, auto-shutoff wires etc etc from where the wires go into that block, while the wheels are turned to the far right, see what you get for resistance values, then, with wheels straight, measure same wires (make a handy check list of wires and color codes so you know which wires you tested).
if you have differences, then you know you have a short/open, then start tracing wire down to where it may be contacting metal.
or, with hood open and a friend at wheel and engine idling, hood open and strong light and good eyes,,(ha, mine are shot, but hey) watch for any wire which might be getting pinched/stretched/jammed when wheel is turned to the right. see if it shuts off while parked. if its an automatic tranny do it in both park and neutral and see what happens. also in drive (with friends foot on brake of course, and NO revving, just idle)
just some thoughts on some ways that might point you in a clearer direction sir!
good luck!
cpnwrench
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: NW WA
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
dont call me sir, i work for a living,
well so much for this being easy or common i guess. also if i brake with my left foot and give the truck some gas while i turn it wont die.
yes my steering column is so loose it's broken. but it has been that way for six months now. my wife drove it once and when it came back it was all f'd up. i just put it in a year ago out of a cherokee. so now the brights switch wont go up high enough to function either. that has been a problem since the day it broke.
Jeeping Dan, can you elaborate?
i thought this was a common problem with an easy fix. that's what i get for thinking.
well so much for this being easy or common i guess. also if i brake with my left foot and give the truck some gas while i turn it wont die.
yes my steering column is so loose it's broken. but it has been that way for six months now. my wife drove it once and when it came back it was all f'd up. i just put it in a year ago out of a cherokee. so now the brights switch wont go up high enough to function either. that has been a problem since the day it broke.
Jeeping Dan, can you elaborate?
i thought this was a common problem with an easy fix. that's what i get for thinking.
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 760
Likes: 6
From: Landers, CA
Year: Several
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Someone replaced the fuel pump and put it back in wrong. Seen it before.
The pump is clocked to the side, out of position - the pickup tube is not at the bottom where it's supposed to be.
Go under, remove the small screws around the sending unit/fuel pump access. Pull the pump assembly straight out - the pickup tube should be pointing down - not to the side. It fits in many positions - someone not paying attention can get it wrong. Simply put it back in the correct position.
While you have it out - replace the short rubber hose on the pump with FUEL HOSE - most aftermarket replacements use other kinds of hose that dissolves in fuel.
It's a 1/2 job, or less. No need to remove the tank.
Be sure the tank is less than 1/2 full to help prevent you from taking a bath in gasoline. You'll still get wet, but not with a flood!
The pump is clocked to the side, out of position - the pickup tube is not at the bottom where it's supposed to be.
Go under, remove the small screws around the sending unit/fuel pump access. Pull the pump assembly straight out - the pickup tube should be pointing down - not to the side. It fits in many positions - someone not paying attention can get it wrong. Simply put it back in the correct position.
While you have it out - replace the short rubber hose on the pump with FUEL HOSE - most aftermarket replacements use other kinds of hose that dissolves in fuel.
It's a 1/2 job, or less. No need to remove the tank.
Be sure the tank is less than 1/2 full to help prevent you from taking a bath in gasoline. You'll still get wet, but not with a flood!
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: NW WA
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
thanks, that is good to know, i will put that on my to do list along with changing the O2 sensor. good guess, if you assume i four wheel. my truck is only two wheel drive and i never go off road. i put the axles off of a 4x cherokee under it, and was told the transfer case would go right in, but because my truck is an automatic and the donor was a four speed, they would not fit together so the plan was scrapped until i could afford to get a different tx case. which aint happinin now because i just got a 4x cherokee that runs. well, it will when i put the vacuum lines where they belong (i hope..that is what was wrong with my comanche, it wouldn't start because a vac line was in the wrong place).
in the meantime, my column is a tilt column. i had it all the way down. i just raised it up to where it is straight and now it doesnt die anymore. at least so far................. if you don't hear back from me then that was the problem and it's fixed. at least until that wire that was getting pinched breaks in half
in the meantime, my column is a tilt column. i had it all the way down. i just raised it up to where it is straight and now it doesnt die anymore. at least so far................. if you don't hear back from me then that was the problem and it's fixed. at least until that wire that was getting pinched breaks in half
Last edited by bullheimer; Oct 14, 2011 at 02:30 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
you have a GM column in that wonderful jeep same as my 90. If I am not mistaken it's the column. I grew up in a chevy house and have seen this before. All I must say is to resist the demons that tell you to put in switches, tie things with bailing wire, move ignition boxes so you can use a nail to start her, and my fav the button that when it shorts out your jeep gives a little back for not fixing it right in the first place. take it to a shop please please please your jeep will thank you for it.
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: san jacinto
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Is the colum still loose at/near the wheel? If so I would suggest to tighten the 4 bolts hidden under the steering wheel,locking ring,blinker switch assy.(pain in the a$$ to get to them and if I remember right the are torq heads).
As for the brights Lever the switch which is located on the colum next to the ignition switch(also a pain to access) it is a 9mm socket iirc and a phillips head screw and once you loosen the nut and screw the high beam switch can be slid up torwards the wheel for adjustment of the high beam lever. Make sure that the rod is in the guid in the center of the hig beam switch.
Hopefully you get this all squared away.
As for the brights Lever the switch which is located on the colum next to the ignition switch(also a pain to access) it is a 9mm socket iirc and a phillips head screw and once you loosen the nut and screw the high beam switch can be slid up torwards the wheel for adjustment of the high beam lever. Make sure that the rod is in the guid in the center of the hig beam switch.
Hopefully you get this all squared away.
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Is the colum still loose at/near the wheel? If so I would suggest to tighten the 4 bolts hidden under the steering wheel,locking ring,blinker switch assy.(pain in the a$$ to get to them and if I remember right the are torq heads).
As for the brights Lever the switch which is located on the colum next to the ignition switch(also a pain to access) it is a 9mm socket iirc and a phillips head screw and once you loosen the nut and screw the high beam switch can be slid up torwards the wheel for adjustment of the high beam lever. Make sure that the rod is in the guid in the center of the hig beam switch.
Hopefully you get this all squared away.
As for the brights Lever the switch which is located on the colum next to the ignition switch(also a pain to access) it is a 9mm socket iirc and a phillips head screw and once you loosen the nut and screw the high beam switch can be slid up torwards the wheel for adjustment of the high beam lever. Make sure that the rod is in the guid in the center of the hig beam switch.
Hopefully you get this all squared away.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
From: NW WA
Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: straight 6
i tried to fix the first one and it is beyond my capability. i swear to god i don't see how anybody can fix them. a good shop would be great. anybody in skagit county wa know of one? (for my new 89 cherokee)
the one in my comanche is the one i am talking about and it is so loose and it happened over night so it has to be broken. removing and replacing it was much easier than trying to take it apart and fix it. i have tried this on several cars. and the only one i ever managed to fix was a 72 camaro i had the assembly manual for. and it sucked.
see my other thread for who makes new repops.
btw, it definitely is my steering column because it still does it when i backed up the other day with my wheels cranked right, the truck died, then the heater when on and off too as i sawed the steering wheel. these columns lick sack!
the one in my comanche is the one i am talking about and it is so loose and it happened over night so it has to be broken. removing and replacing it was much easier than trying to take it apart and fix it. i have tried this on several cars. and the only one i ever managed to fix was a 72 camaro i had the assembly manual for. and it sucked.

see my other thread for who makes new repops.
btw, it definitely is my steering column because it still does it when i backed up the other day with my wheels cranked right, the truck died, then the heater when on and off too as i sawed the steering wheel. these columns lick sack!
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,268
Likes: 1
From: Bakersfield CA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
May not be as bad as you think, check the ignition switch that is on top of your column under the dash. you will have to drop the column but if that is the problem it's a 20$ part. Your heater blower threw up a red flag for that switch
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