Did I toast my A/C compressor?
#1
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Year: 1998
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Did I toast my A/C compressor?
Hello all,
So my dad had some leftover R134a in one of those AutoZone recharge cans, with the nice gauge and everything. My A/C hasn't worked since I got my XJ, and the humidity here in PA sucks right now, so I figured what the heck, why not give it a shot. I jumped the compressor with a paperclip and followed all the instructions on the can until the gauge read around ~50psi in the green for the ambient temperature at the time. I ran it until it took the whole can, and the A/C was working great for a few minutes. Now, when I turn it on, it will cycle on and off and cause a horrifying squeal, and the compressor will make a loud hum sound and next thing I know, it BLASTS refrigerant out of a little port on the back of the compressor into the engine bay. I removed the gauge from the empty can and it's just stuck at 30psi. Piece of crap!!
I haven't found anything about this on the search, so I was just wondering if anyone else has stupidly overcharged their system as I have.
So my dad had some leftover R134a in one of those AutoZone recharge cans, with the nice gauge and everything. My A/C hasn't worked since I got my XJ, and the humidity here in PA sucks right now, so I figured what the heck, why not give it a shot. I jumped the compressor with a paperclip and followed all the instructions on the can until the gauge read around ~50psi in the green for the ambient temperature at the time. I ran it until it took the whole can, and the A/C was working great for a few minutes. Now, when I turn it on, it will cycle on and off and cause a horrifying squeal, and the compressor will make a loud hum sound and next thing I know, it BLASTS refrigerant out of a little port on the back of the compressor into the engine bay. I removed the gauge from the empty can and it's just stuck at 30psi. Piece of crap!!
I haven't found anything about this on the search, so I was just wondering if anyone else has stupidly overcharged their system as I have.
#2
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1 can shouldn't be enough to overcharge the system. You probably got ice in there from not evacuating the moisture first, that blocks the plumbing and raises the pressure sky high.
#3
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I'd say let the pressure continue to blow off. Unless you have a vacuum pump and a reclaiming tank to reclaim the refrigerant and hold it while you can dry the system out and recharge it.
#4
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I'm fine with doing that but I just want to make sure I'm not doing any harm to the compressor by letting it blow off like that. It's pretty scary, lol
#5
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sounds like your orifice tube is stopped up. hook up a full set of gauges: on a normal 90 degree day they should read @30-50psi on the lp side and @250 or so on the hp side. If lp is normal and hp is too high you have a blocked metered orifice tube. replace tube(comes as assy of line w/ tube installed), and dryer together. then vacuum and recharge the system with 134
#7
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it is located inside the metal lp line, the same one you hook up the low side gauge to so you can charge the system. orifice tube is what is called a "fixed" orifice tube meaning you cant change just the $2 tube you must change the entire line.Chrysler should have stayed with the expansion valve..... they almost never failed!
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#8
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it is located inside the metal lp line, the same one you hook up the low side gauge to so you can charge the system. orifice tube is what is called a "fixed" orifice tube meaning you cant change just the $2 tube you must change the entire line.Chrysler should have stayed with the expansion valve..... they almost never failed!
#9
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It's common with all orifice tube designed systems. The tubes eventually block up if moisture or contaminants enter the system.
Due to this, most parts suppliers won't honor the warranty on a replacement compressor if you don't buy the corresponding orifice tube and dryer assemblies.
Due to this, most parts suppliers won't honor the warranty on a replacement compressor if you don't buy the corresponding orifice tube and dryer assemblies.
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