A tech told me the bulb test is incorrect because that doesn't measure the correct amp draw. I have use a meter the bulb test only test volts not amps which is what need. Ill try both.

 

The battery is rated 540cca.
I have it on a charger right now on slow charge.

 

The battery is rated 540cca.
I have it on a charger right now on slow charge.

 

You know what? You're right. I don't have a clue about what I'm talking about. The 6 years of school (4 of electrical and 2 of electronics) plus 18 years of field experience mean nothing.

All I can say is good luck

 

But your test would not be accurate, you said the light would dim when you pull the fuse that is connected to the short circuit. If the fuse was before the short the fuse would "pop". If it was after the light would get brighter due to the lesser current draw that you just relieved.

 

Install a bulb as I said (between the neg. batt. term and the neg. cable). Now test the theory. Turn on your headlights and tell me if the bulb goes bright or goes dim.

 

It would dim, thats a different scenario. With the headlights your taking more current, by removing a fuse that goes to a short your decreasing the current draw and would make it brighter.

 

Amp is flow
Volt is pressure
That's what the text book reads.

 

Amp is flow
Volt is pressure
That's what the text book reads.

 

Text books aren't always right. Just sayin.

Text books from waaaaay back when said the earth is flat and the universe revolves around it.

Is this info accurate?

 

Its a analogy often used.

 

I'm no expert I just wanna fix my jeep that's all. I'm just sick of my battery losing power that all. I'm not here to make fun of anyone. I just want some help.

 

Wrong

Try it THEN get back to me. And yes, we're not talking voltage drop, we're talking current flow.

 

Try what I suggested. If you need help hooking up the test rig, PM me or just write back here.

 

Short locator. It will take time but it will pinpoint the wire that has the short.