mines a 10

 

It should specify on the fuse panel by each spot.

 

it said 10 but i put a 15. manual shows a 15amp or a 20amp. got the lights working though which was very nice.

 

Now go look and see if the Jeep has some hay-okey trailer wiring harness on the back that could be the cause of the blown fuse.

 

I think the blown fuse was caused by the light switch. There was a metal c-clip used on part of the dash for screws. It was in the switch touching the rheostat and the metal case part of the headlight switch.

They had went out lastnight when i was messing with the dimmer on the switch. But i will check to see if there is a trailer harness back there as i do have the tow hitch.

 

You might be OK since you are aware of what may have caused your issue. That said, go check the trailer harness for giggles.

 

Its happened to me before, the wire on the backside gets lose and shorts.

 

yea i'll definately check them out and if there is no cap on the connector probably find me a cap of sorts to go on there or make myself cap for it out of another connector.

Don't think i'd ever pull anything with it, since it does have 212,750miles on it. Pretty sure i'm like the 4th owner of this jeep. Apparently someone with a stereo owned it before the last owner. Cause the last owner said they removed the amp the guy left, that owned it before them. Definitely gonna find me a nice spot to make a good ground on the inside of one of the door areas.

Being a ham radio op, there will be radios going in as well as potentially some stuff for storm spotting. nothing better than a 4x4 jeep.

 

This could help with the grounding of your dash lights etc.

Improving the Instrument Panel Ground
The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release ****. The screw will have either a ¼" or 5/16" head on it.
This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things.
The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple.
Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10" long. On one end, crimp on a ¼" round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8" round wire terminal.
Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other.
Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release ****. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely.
**Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12" long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.**
　
Revised 11-29-2011

 

yea i'll have to look for that. i need to replace a screw in the driver side lower dash piece as well cause it hangs down by the door cause the original slot is stripped out.