Dana 35 vs '97-up Chrysler 8.25 (side by side)
#17
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's like a boating forum I was on. Someone asks "what size truck do I need to tow this with". I chime in that I tow the exact same boat with an Explorer but would suggest something a little more suited if he's not highly experienced and comfortable with towing. Then others have the guy shopping for an F-350 super duty diesel; it's under 5000 friggin pounds and the guy tows 20 miles on flat road 8-10 times a year. Last I saw he was selling both because of the costs. I know it's off topic, but kinda related and hadn't relived that pent up anxiety in years; thanks.
#18
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
#19
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
Cool pics. Why didn't you go with a disc brake conversion, though? Or are you going to with the 8.25? Just curious.
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
I sure would as long as I had the rear out, regardless of what kind.
example:
http://www.myxj.net/blog/rear-disc-b...825-rear-axle/
My axle will get disc conversion before install. Probably new bearings & seals and a locker as well...since I'm in there.
#20
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
New ubolts every time is ridiculous. I've never replaced one and never had one fail, from race cars to big rigs. I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer. Anyone who thinks that every critical fastener is a one time use item should start replacing their wheel studs, U-joint fasteners, bumper bolts, spring eye bolts, caliper bolts....where does it end?
I wouldn't replace them every time IF I had previously installed the fasteners new or knew the history of the vehicle. The OP is reusing junkyard u-bolts with an unknown service history when they can be properly replaced for under $30.
And this...."I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer."
Are you serious with this? Every spring manufacturer out there will more than likely recommend you replace the u-bolts. Here are just a couple I found with two minutes of Google.
www.eatondetroitspring.com
www.daytonparts.com
#21
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
Bolts from Currie are useless as they are a week away. Auto parts stores sell 'em too...but who knows if its cheap-assed Chinese steel? I'd say used OEM fasteners in good condition would be preferable to that. Besides, they're pre-stretched...so they don't have so far to go.
#22
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
And this...."I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer."
Are you serious with this? Every spring manufacturer out there will more than likely recommend you replace the u-bolts. Here are just a couple I found with two minutes of Google.
Are you serious with this? Every spring manufacturer out there will more than likely recommend you replace the u-bolts. Here are just a couple I found with two minutes of Google.
#23
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Your guess is as good as mine. Both companies listed have been producing leaf springs since before Jeep even existed. Manufacturer doesn't matter as the same principles apply to all leaf springs regardless of make. In the end, there is a correct way and an incorrect way to make a repair. New u-bolts is the correct way. I didn't make it up. I'm just simply passing on information.
If you reuse u-bolts, will the rear end fall out of the Jeep? Probably not. Will the used bolts torque down the same as new? Probably not. Will the bolts loosen up over time? Maybe. Can a loose u-bolt cause damage to the spring? Yes. Will using new u-bolts prevent this? Yes. Why am I still arguing this? I have no idea. I personally don't care if you stick the thing in there with super glue and duct tape. As I said....just passing on info.
If you reuse u-bolts, will the rear end fall out of the Jeep? Probably not. Will the used bolts torque down the same as new? Probably not. Will the bolts loosen up over time? Maybe. Can a loose u-bolt cause damage to the spring? Yes. Will using new u-bolts prevent this? Yes. Why am I still arguing this? I have no idea. I personally don't care if you stick the thing in there with super glue and duct tape. As I said....just passing on info.
#24
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
This is a 200k mile Jeep. The entire vehicle is made up of parts with an unknown service history. This rear end came from a 2001 XJ with 123k miles. The hardware in question appeared in good condition with no noticeable thread distortion. Bolts from Currie are useless as they are a week away. Auto parts stores sell 'em too...but who knows if its cheap-assed Chinese steel? I'd say used OEM fasteners in good condition would be preferable to that. Besides, they're pre-stretched...so they don't have so far to go.
#25
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
Model: Cherokee
So it's that time again and my second 29-spline 8.25 is ready to be installed. This one is a bit different; disc brakes, new axle bearings & seals, an Aussie Locker, and a SOLID diff cover.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
#27
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So it's that time again and my second 29-spline 8.25 is ready to be installed. This one is a bit different; disc brakes, new axle bearings & seals, an Aussie Locker, and a SOLID diff cover.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
I pulled my cast iron covers and went with these they are heavier and much better quality, but at about 2-3 times the price. I now have sliders on both of them but the 8.25 is the worst about hanging up on the center lip.
#28
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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#29
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Year: 1991, 1997 & 2000 (yeah, I got 3)
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Yeah, thats a nice diff cover. But at three times the price ? I guess that's why it's all shiny and has no bash marks on it? You been polishing that thing?