When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
It's like a boating forum I was on. Someone asks "what size truck do I need to tow this with". I chime in that I tow the exact same boat with an Explorer but would suggest something a little more suited if he's not highly experienced and comfortable with towing. Then others have the guy shopping for an F-350 super duty diesel; it's under 5000 friggin pounds and the guy tows 20 miles on flat road 8-10 times a year. Last I saw he was selling both because of the costs. I know it's off topic, but kinda related and hadn't relived that pent up anxiety in years; thanks.
This one is on my kid's Jeep. Mine will probably get discs.
EDIT: After getting re-acquainted with drum brakes in the process of swapping the entire brake setup from the D35 to the 8.25...I would have to agree. Drum brakes just plain suck.
My axle will get disc conversion before install. Probably new bearings & seals and a locker as well...since I'm in there.
New ubolts every time is ridiculous. I've never replaced one and never had one fail, from race cars to big rigs. I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer. Anyone who thinks that every critical fastener is a one time use item should start replacing their wheel studs, U-joint fasteners, bumper bolts, spring eye bolts, caliper bolts....where does it end?
I wouldn't replace them every time IF I had previously installed the fasteners new or knew the history of the vehicle. The OP is reusing junkyard u-bolts with an unknown service history when they can be properly replaced for under $30.
And this...."I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer."
Are you serious with this? Every spring manufacturer out there will more than likely recommend you replace the u-bolts. Here are just a couple I found with two minutes of Google.
I wouldn't replace them every time IF I had previously installed the fasteners new or knew the history of the vehicle. The OP is reusing junkyard u-bolts with an unknown service history when they can be properly replaced for under $30......
This is a 200k mile Jeep. The entire vehicle is made up of parts with an unknown service history. This rear end came from a 2001 XJ with 123k miles. The hardware in question appeared in good condition with no noticeable thread distortion.
Bolts from Currie are useless as they are a week away. Auto parts stores sell 'em too...but who knows if its cheap-assed Chinese steel? I'd say used OEM fasteners in good condition would be preferable to that. Besides, they're pre-stretched...so they don't have so far to go.
And this...."I've also never seen it required or even recommended in any repair manual or by any OE manufacturer."
Are you serious with this? Every spring manufacturer out there will more than likely recommend you replace the u-bolts. Here are just a couple I found with two minutes of Google.
Which of those companies is the supplier of our OEM springs?
Which of those companies is the supplier of our OEM springs?
Your guess is as good as mine. Both companies listed have been producing leaf springs since before Jeep even existed. Manufacturer doesn't matter as the same principles apply to all leaf springs regardless of make. In the end, there is a correct way and an incorrect way to make a repair. New u-bolts is the correct way. I didn't make it up. I'm just simply passing on information.
If you reuse u-bolts, will the rear end fall out of the Jeep? Probably not. Will the used bolts torque down the same as new? Probably not. Will the bolts loosen up over time? Maybe. Can a loose u-bolt cause damage to the spring? Yes. Will using new u-bolts prevent this? Yes. Why am I still arguing this? I have no idea. I personally don't care if you stick the thing in there with super glue and duct tape. As I said....just passing on info.
This is a 200k mile Jeep. The entire vehicle is made up of parts with an unknown service history. This rear end came from a 2001 XJ with 123k miles. The hardware in question appeared in good condition with no noticeable thread distortion. Bolts from Currie are useless as they are a week away. Auto parts stores sell 'em too...but who knows if its cheap-assed Chinese steel? I'd say used OEM fasteners in good condition would be preferable to that. Besides, they're pre-stretched...so they don't have so far to go.
I probably would also stick with used OEM over parts store crap, but I would still replace them sooner than later if for no other reason than peace of mind. Local spring shops may be able to make them while you wait. Just trying to pass on useful info. Enjoy your build.
So it's that time again and my second 29-spline 8.25 is ready to be installed. This one is a bit different; disc brakes, new axle bearings & seals, an Aussie Locker, and a SOLID diff cover.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
So it's that time again and my second 29-spline 8.25 is ready to be installed. This one is a bit different; disc brakes, new axle bearings & seals, an Aussie Locker, and a SOLID diff cover.
I had been thinking these SOLID covers were cast aluminum...but no. Once I read the fine print and realized they are actually cast iron, I bought one for each end. Nice piece for the money.
I pulled my cast iron covers and went with these they are heavier and much better quality, but at about 2-3 times the price. I now have sliders on both of them but the 8.25 is the worst about hanging up on the center lip.
I pulled my cast iron covers and went with these they are heavier and much better quality, but at about 2-3 times the price. I now have sliders on both of them but the 8.25 is the worst about hanging up on the center lip.
Yeah, thats a nice diff cover. But at three times the price ? I guess that's why it's all shiny and has no bash marks on it? You been polishing that thing?
